Hiking Trail Etiquette for Canines

In the past I have written about proper dog park etiquette, but I have yet to write about the do's and don'ts of hiking trails. If you and your dog are not properly armed with knowledge, training and equipment for hiking on a trail, bad things can happen. Before I list out the etiquette portion of this blog, I will first list out the preparations you need to make before you hit the wild.

First and Foremost-- Is your dog even capable to hike a trail?

• Age: It is highly advised to take your dog's age into consideration. Puppies should hike for less than an hour. Elderly dogs joints, health and stamina should be considered. If you are going to take an elderly dog or puppy on a hike, please check with your veterinarian first and follow their guidelines.
• Dogs with a high prey drive or are highly exciteable: It is recommended that these dogs do not take hikes without a leash and have gone through rigorous obedience training. The wilderness offers a lot of stimulus-- wild life smells and the new terrain can cause your sensitive pup to go into overdrive. Remember: a dog's senses are way more acute than a human's!
• Train, train, train: Even the best trained dogs can struggle with keeping to the rules on a trail. It is advised that you take your dog on short "training hikes" before proceeding to a long hike.
• Up to date on all vaccinations: Please make sure your dog is up to date on all shots. It is also recommended that your dog is vaccinated for Leptospirosis which is a pathogen found in wildlife urine. 
• Short-Muzzled Dogs: It is recommended that dogs with short muzzles-- bulldogs, pugs, etc...--- do not go on strenuous, long hikes. Due to the air constriction of their muzzles, these dogs just aren't made for endurance and are at high risk for heat exhaustion and exercise intolerance. 
• Are my dog's paws preppped? Before you take your dog on an epic, long hike, take them on short hikes first and gradually work up the time duration. Your dog's paws will thank you.

Before you go, do your homework:

•  Pack a First Aid Kit: Not sure what should go into a first aid kit for your dog? ---->Click here. ***Extra helpful tip: pack it with you on the hike. You don't want to be in an emergency situation on a trail and have your first aid kit in the car. 
• 6' Leash: You don't want an extra long leash that gets tangled on everything-- No zipline leashes! But, you also don't want a super short leash that makes your dog feel trapped. Even if your dog is off leash trained, you need to have a leash on hand.
• Bring water and food: Just like for yourself, your dog may need extra calories and certainly will need water! Please bring a collapsable bowl with you and don't just rely on the ol' pour water into your dog's mouth from a water bottle method-- let them drink how they are build to drink. Also, don't rely on natural waterways for your dog's thirst. These may contain pathogens that will make your dog sick.
• Be picky about your location: Choose a location that is easy on paws. Avoid rough terrain, massive drop offs, hot surfaces and sharp rocks. If the trail is epic for mountain bikes and horses, it's probably not best for dogs.  
• Care for the paws: Bring a pair of booties for your dog as well as some paw salve.  

Trail Etiquette!!

• Your dog should be under control at all times both on and off leash.
• Your dog should be within sight at all times and close enough for commands.
• Recall training with a whistle that can be heard from 400 yards away is a must. 
• Yield to other hikers with your dog heeling by your side when others approach. 
• Communicate proactively with other hikers. Please let other hikers know your dog's temperament before they approach. This will also give other hikers a chance to let you know their dog's temperament or their feelings about dogs-- not all people are dog lovers! Respect that: You don't know their history. This can help reduce the risk of dog fights, startlement and basic bad things happening. 
• Don't try to manage more than one dog at a time. If you have more than one dog, bring a friend to help out. Remember, even the best trained dogs can get overstimulated in the wild! Plus, there is just a lot of things that can happen on a trail that you have absolutely no control over. 
• Leave no trace. Pick up your dog poop and pack it out with you. Yes, I know that bears poop in the wilderness, but dog feces is toxic to the environment. (read here for the scoop on poop.)
• Protect the wildlife. Please don't let your dog go barreling off trail through the brush. Protect the natural flora and fauna: keep your dog to the trail. Dogs marking off trail can cause distress to the natural territorial animals in the area. Finally, proceed with caution on letting your dog enter water-- remember feces can disrupt waterways.

Caution while hiking:

• Be aware of temperatures. Try to avoid temperature extremes. Too cold and your dog risks hypothermia or frostbite. Too hot and your dog risks heat stroke. Keep out of the midday heat and sun. Pack extra water. 
• Check your dog for over exertion. Take frequent breaks and if your dog does not recover during those breaks, your pushing too hard.
• Check for paw injuries frequently.
• Be aware of dangerous plants, animals and unstable terrain: ticks, snakes, porcupines, poison ivy, cactus, giant drop offs-- research your terrain before you adventure into unfamiliar areas.
• Be wary of letting your dog drink from the water: there are pathogens that will make your dog sick in some waters, especially areas near campgrounds or cattle. Signs of water poisoning: diahrrea, vomiting, lethargy.

As you can see, it takes a lot of preparation to be a responsible, trail hiking dog owner! There is commitment involved for the safety of all involved. But with the right time put in, it's well worth the adventure outdoors. 🌲
 

Caring For Your Elderly Dog

Old age is not a disease, it's a stage of life. Larger dogs will hit the "elderly stage" earlier than smaller dogs: Giant breeds-- 5 to 6 years, Medium dogs-- 7 to 8 years and Smaller dogs-- 10 to 12 years. Once your beloved dog starts to reach this age range, it's time to start adjusting their care in order to give them the longest, healthiest and happiest life possible. Here are some tips on caring for your elderly dog:

• Elderly dogs are more sensitive to extreme temperature changes because their metabolism is changing. They are less able to thermoregulate. In cold weather, if needed, provide your dog with a winter coat and do not leave them outside as long. In hot weather, again, do not leave them outside as long. Plus, make sure their is plenty of opportunities for hydration. Dehydration is at a higher risk. 
• Start to moderate exercise. As your dog starts to age, the heart and lungs will start to weaken. This will mean Fido will no longer be able to exercise as long or as hard as in earlier years. Exercise will need to be adjusted accordingly.
• Work with your veterinarian on adjusting your dog to a "senior diet". Working with a veterinarian or canine health professional is important. Unlike puppy food, there is no regulation as to what is considered a senior diet in the pet food industry. 
• Keep an eye on your dog's weight. Extra weight will wreak havoc on your dog's joints. In turn, this can exacerbate arthritic symptoms. For more information on Hip Dysplasia and arthritis, click here (hips) and here (arthritis).
• Incontinence may happen. Please do not punish, but realize that this is just part of the stage of life. But, it is also important to have this checked out by your veterinarian in order to make sure there is not an underlying medical issue like a bladder infection, ect..
• Canine Cognitive Dysfunction may also happen. You may notice that your dog isn't performing the tricks that used to be a favorite or is forgetting the daily walking route. Elderly dogs can also suffer memory loss as they get older. Here is a helpful link (click here) on how to recognize Canine Cognitive Dysfunction in your dog. 
• Saying Goodbye. I know this isn't a topic we like to think about. Letting go is HARD. But, there may come a time when your Furry Companion is just ready to cross the rainbow bridge. If you happen to notice a lack of luster, your dog is no longer playing, not enjoying life, not interacting, not interested in food or social interaction and in general nothing you or your vet can do to bring your pup back to "normal", it may be time to consider what is the overall quality of your dogs life is at this point. Sometimes, a dog may be ready to cross when the humans is not ready to let go. This prolongs the suffering on both ends. 

I hope these tips are helpful as you and your canine approach this stage of your dog's life. With care, thoughtfulness and understanding, this stage of your dog's life is rewarding and can help you and your canine bond on a deeper level (As well as teach you, the owner, A LOT of lessons about yourself. 😉) Remember: with age, comes wisdom!

How to Stop Leash Pulling in Canines

Leash pulling can be one of the most frustrating and difficult behaviors in your furry friend, because dogs naturally want to explore and are reflexively opposed to restraint. Basically, trying to train your dog to walk politely on a leash means you are working against your dog's natural instincts. But, it can be done and it should be done. You just need A LOT of patience and commitment.

Before I begin, I think I should clarify the difference between "polite leash walking" and "heeling". Heeling is a competitive exercise in which you are training your dog to walk close to your left leg. In this post, this is not what we are aiming at, but rather we want a polite leash walk (aka loose leash walk): The leash is slack. Your dog is not yanking and coughing around the block. Rather, you and the dog are casually walking from A to B. You are both interacting with each other and your dog is able to sniff and explore. It's a happy experience for both of you!

I would like you to notice three details in the above paragraph: Walking from A to B, Exploring and Interacting. It's not natural for a dog to want to walk in a straight line from A to B. They want to explore and SNIFF. Allowing your dog to do so, will help them with any pent up mental and physical stimulation that is built up in their body. Thus, equaling a better behaved dog. BUT, your ultimate goal is to get from A to B.... or rather start at A (home) and get around the block back to A (home). However you want to read it. Interacting is the last element. Most people, when they take their dog on a walk, don't really interact with their dog. It is a chore to them and they do it to get it done. A dog owner needs to change that mentality and interact with their furry family member during the walk. It is a time to train and build a positive relationship.

So let's begin:

• The first step to walking your dog is to mentally prepare yourself. Before you leave the house, be aware of your body language and mental energy. Dogs are amazing and can pick up on any stress, negativity and frustration in your body. Make sure you keep this a positive experience. You need to be confident in your body language and energy. 
• The collar should be placed at the top of the neck, instead of at the bottom near the shoulders. Dogs are built to pull with the chest and shoulders. Placing the collar near the shoulders, just reinforces the instinct to pull.
• The leash should be short and loose. No retractable leashes. The farther you have your dog away from you, the harder it is to communicate. This ultimately leads to a lack of control.

Two Training Methods:

1. REWARD. It is best to train your dog when they are hungry. So opt for right before breakfast or dinner. Start with your furry friend right next to you on the leash and take a step. When your dog steps with you, give them a treat. With each step, reward your dog. Gradually, through subsequent walks, build up the steps between treats.

2. PENALTY YARDS. Let's say you are out in the yard and you have set up a point "A" and "B". At point B there is a really good treat. Start at point A and take a step. If they do not pull on the leash, take another step. Continue on this way. When they pull on the leash, immediately go back to point A and start over. This communicates to the dog that when they pull on their leash, it takes them farther away from their goal.

They key to training is to be consistent. Allowing your dog to pull you to a specific spot every once in awhile will backfire on you. Each time you allow, you are using variable reinforcement, which will build more staying power into the pulling behavior. Before you know it, you will have your dog pulling you every which way and you will be frustrated, because you will have to start training at square one again.

Last, your training sessions should be no longer than 45 minutes. Puppies should have shorter sessions. If your dog seems bored, losing attention or making mistakes, it's probably time to take a break. Training should be fun and rewarding in order to build a positive relationship with your dog.