Caring For Your Elderly Dog

Old age is not a disease, it's a stage of life. Larger dogs will hit the "elderly stage" earlier than smaller dogs: Giant breeds-- 5 to 6 years, Medium dogs-- 7 to 8 years and Smaller dogs-- 10 to 12 years. Once your beloved dog starts to reach this age range, it's time to start adjusting their care in order to give them the longest, healthiest and happiest life possible. Here are some tips on caring for your elderly dog:

• Elderly dogs are more sensitive to extreme temperature changes because their metabolism is changing. They are less able to thermoregulate. In cold weather, if needed, provide your dog with a winter coat and do not leave them outside as long. In hot weather, again, do not leave them outside as long. Plus, make sure their is plenty of opportunities for hydration. Dehydration is at a higher risk. 
• Start to moderate exercise. As your dog starts to age, the heart and lungs will start to weaken. This will mean Fido will no longer be able to exercise as long or as hard as in earlier years. Exercise will need to be adjusted accordingly.
• Work with your veterinarian on adjusting your dog to a "senior diet". Working with a veterinarian or canine health professional is important. Unlike puppy food, there is no regulation as to what is considered a senior diet in the pet food industry. 
• Keep an eye on your dog's weight. Extra weight will wreak havoc on your dog's joints. In turn, this can exacerbate arthritic symptoms. For more information on Hip Dysplasia and arthritis, click here (hips) and here (arthritis).
• Incontinence may happen. Please do not punish, but realize that this is just part of the stage of life. But, it is also important to have this checked out by your veterinarian in order to make sure there is not an underlying medical issue like a bladder infection, ect..
• Canine Cognitive Dysfunction may also happen. You may notice that your dog isn't performing the tricks that used to be a favorite or is forgetting the daily walking route. Elderly dogs can also suffer memory loss as they get older. Here is a helpful link (click here) on how to recognize Canine Cognitive Dysfunction in your dog. 
• Saying Goodbye. I know this isn't a topic we like to think about. Letting go is HARD. But, there may come a time when your Furry Companion is just ready to cross the rainbow bridge. If you happen to notice a lack of luster, your dog is no longer playing, not enjoying life, not interacting, not interested in food or social interaction and in general nothing you or your vet can do to bring your pup back to "normal", it may be time to consider what is the overall quality of your dogs life is at this point. Sometimes, a dog may be ready to cross when the humans is not ready to let go. This prolongs the suffering on both ends. 

I hope these tips are helpful as you and your canine approach this stage of your dog's life. With care, thoughtfulness and understanding, this stage of your dog's life is rewarding and can help you and your canine bond on a deeper level (As well as teach you, the owner, A LOT of lessons about yourself. 😉) Remember: with age, comes wisdom!

How to Stop Leash Pulling in Canines

Leash pulling can be one of the most frustrating and difficult behaviors in your furry friend, because dogs naturally want to explore and are reflexively opposed to restraint. Basically, trying to train your dog to walk politely on a leash means you are working against your dog's natural instincts. But, it can be done and it should be done. You just need A LOT of patience and commitment.

Before I begin, I think I should clarify the difference between "polite leash walking" and "heeling". Heeling is a competitive exercise in which you are training your dog to walk close to your left leg. In this post, this is not what we are aiming at, but rather we want a polite leash walk (aka loose leash walk): The leash is slack. Your dog is not yanking and coughing around the block. Rather, you and the dog are casually walking from A to B. You are both interacting with each other and your dog is able to sniff and explore. It's a happy experience for both of you!

I would like you to notice three details in the above paragraph: Walking from A to B, Exploring and Interacting. It's not natural for a dog to want to walk in a straight line from A to B. They want to explore and SNIFF. Allowing your dog to do so, will help them with any pent up mental and physical stimulation that is built up in their body. Thus, equaling a better behaved dog. BUT, your ultimate goal is to get from A to B.... or rather start at A (home) and get around the block back to A (home). However you want to read it. Interacting is the last element. Most people, when they take their dog on a walk, don't really interact with their dog. It is a chore to them and they do it to get it done. A dog owner needs to change that mentality and interact with their furry family member during the walk. It is a time to train and build a positive relationship.

So let's begin:

• The first step to walking your dog is to mentally prepare yourself. Before you leave the house, be aware of your body language and mental energy. Dogs are amazing and can pick up on any stress, negativity and frustration in your body. Make sure you keep this a positive experience. You need to be confident in your body language and energy. 
• The collar should be placed at the top of the neck, instead of at the bottom near the shoulders. Dogs are built to pull with the chest and shoulders. Placing the collar near the shoulders, just reinforces the instinct to pull.
• The leash should be short and loose. No retractable leashes. The farther you have your dog away from you, the harder it is to communicate. This ultimately leads to a lack of control.

Two Training Methods:

1. REWARD. It is best to train your dog when they are hungry. So opt for right before breakfast or dinner. Start with your furry friend right next to you on the leash and take a step. When your dog steps with you, give them a treat. With each step, reward your dog. Gradually, through subsequent walks, build up the steps between treats.

2. PENALTY YARDS. Let's say you are out in the yard and you have set up a point "A" and "B". At point B there is a really good treat. Start at point A and take a step. If they do not pull on the leash, take another step. Continue on this way. When they pull on the leash, immediately go back to point A and start over. This communicates to the dog that when they pull on their leash, it takes them farther away from their goal.

They key to training is to be consistent. Allowing your dog to pull you to a specific spot every once in awhile will backfire on you. Each time you allow, you are using variable reinforcement, which will build more staying power into the pulling behavior. Before you know it, you will have your dog pulling you every which way and you will be frustrated, because you will have to start training at square one again.

Last, your training sessions should be no longer than 45 minutes. Puppies should have shorter sessions. If your dog seems bored, losing attention or making mistakes, it's probably time to take a break. Training should be fun and rewarding in order to build a positive relationship with your dog.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

PUPPIES!! Puppies are curious creatures with a lot energy. They cute, fun and tiring! Below, I have composed a couple of lists on how to "puppy proof" before you bring home your little fur ball of energy. I have divided the lists into indoor (orange) and outdoor (green) safety:

It seems like A LOT, right? But, there is more.... on to the outdoor safety...

In addition, make sure you do a thorough "walk around" your yard to make sure there are no hazards like broken glass, exposed nails and sharp objects to injure your puppy. Once these lists are completed, you can have peace of mind, but always remain alert and observant with your puppy.