Caring For Your Elderly Dog

Old age is not a disease, it's a stage of life. Larger dogs will hit the "elderly stage" earlier than smaller dogs: Giant breeds-- 5 to 6 years, Medium dogs-- 7 to 8 years and Smaller dogs-- 10 to 12 years. Once your beloved dog starts to reach this age range, it's time to start adjusting their care in order to give them the longest, healthiest and happiest life possible. Here are some tips on caring for your elderly dog:

• Elderly dogs are more sensitive to extreme temperature changes because their metabolism is changing. They are less able to thermoregulate. In cold weather, if needed, provide your dog with a winter coat and do not leave them outside as long. In hot weather, again, do not leave them outside as long. Plus, make sure their is plenty of opportunities for hydration. Dehydration is at a higher risk. 
• Start to moderate exercise. As your dog starts to age, the heart and lungs will start to weaken. This will mean Fido will no longer be able to exercise as long or as hard as in earlier years. Exercise will need to be adjusted accordingly.
• Work with your veterinarian on adjusting your dog to a "senior diet". Working with a veterinarian or canine health professional is important. Unlike puppy food, there is no regulation as to what is considered a senior diet in the pet food industry. 
• Keep an eye on your dog's weight. Extra weight will wreak havoc on your dog's joints. In turn, this can exacerbate arthritic symptoms. For more information on Hip Dysplasia and arthritis, click here (hips) and here (arthritis).
• Incontinence may happen. Please do not punish, but realize that this is just part of the stage of life. But, it is also important to have this checked out by your veterinarian in order to make sure there is not an underlying medical issue like a bladder infection, ect..
• Canine Cognitive Dysfunction may also happen. You may notice that your dog isn't performing the tricks that used to be a favorite or is forgetting the daily walking route. Elderly dogs can also suffer memory loss as they get older. Here is a helpful link (click here) on how to recognize Canine Cognitive Dysfunction in your dog. 
• Saying Goodbye. I know this isn't a topic we like to think about. Letting go is HARD. But, there may come a time when your Furry Companion is just ready to cross the rainbow bridge. If you happen to notice a lack of luster, your dog is no longer playing, not enjoying life, not interacting, not interested in food or social interaction and in general nothing you or your vet can do to bring your pup back to "normal", it may be time to consider what is the overall quality of your dogs life is at this point. Sometimes, a dog may be ready to cross when the humans is not ready to let go. This prolongs the suffering on both ends. 

I hope these tips are helpful as you and your canine approach this stage of your dog's life. With care, thoughtfulness and understanding, this stage of your dog's life is rewarding and can help you and your canine bond on a deeper level (As well as teach you, the owner, A LOT of lessons about yourself. 😉) Remember: with age, comes wisdom!

How to Stop Leash Pulling in Canines

Leash pulling can be one of the most frustrating and difficult behaviors in your furry friend, because dogs naturally want to explore and are reflexively opposed to restraint. Basically, trying to train your dog to walk politely on a leash means you are working against your dog's natural instincts. But, it can be done and it should be done. You just need A LOT of patience and commitment.

Before I begin, I think I should clarify the difference between "polite leash walking" and "heeling". Heeling is a competitive exercise in which you are training your dog to walk close to your left leg. In this post, this is not what we are aiming at, but rather we want a polite leash walk (aka loose leash walk): The leash is slack. Your dog is not yanking and coughing around the block. Rather, you and the dog are casually walking from A to B. You are both interacting with each other and your dog is able to sniff and explore. It's a happy experience for both of you!

I would like you to notice three details in the above paragraph: Walking from A to B, Exploring and Interacting. It's not natural for a dog to want to walk in a straight line from A to B. They want to explore and SNIFF. Allowing your dog to do so, will help them with any pent up mental and physical stimulation that is built up in their body. Thus, equaling a better behaved dog. BUT, your ultimate goal is to get from A to B.... or rather start at A (home) and get around the block back to A (home). However you want to read it. Interacting is the last element. Most people, when they take their dog on a walk, don't really interact with their dog. It is a chore to them and they do it to get it done. A dog owner needs to change that mentality and interact with their furry family member during the walk. It is a time to train and build a positive relationship.

So let's begin:

• The first step to walking your dog is to mentally prepare yourself. Before you leave the house, be aware of your body language and mental energy. Dogs are amazing and can pick up on any stress, negativity and frustration in your body. Make sure you keep this a positive experience. You need to be confident in your body language and energy. 
• The collar should be placed at the top of the neck, instead of at the bottom near the shoulders. Dogs are built to pull with the chest and shoulders. Placing the collar near the shoulders, just reinforces the instinct to pull.
• The leash should be short and loose. No retractable leashes. The farther you have your dog away from you, the harder it is to communicate. This ultimately leads to a lack of control.

Two Training Methods:

1. REWARD. It is best to train your dog when they are hungry. So opt for right before breakfast or dinner. Start with your furry friend right next to you on the leash and take a step. When your dog steps with you, give them a treat. With each step, reward your dog. Gradually, through subsequent walks, build up the steps between treats.

2. PENALTY YARDS. Let's say you are out in the yard and you have set up a point "A" and "B". At point B there is a really good treat. Start at point A and take a step. If they do not pull on the leash, take another step. Continue on this way. When they pull on the leash, immediately go back to point A and start over. This communicates to the dog that when they pull on their leash, it takes them farther away from their goal.

They key to training is to be consistent. Allowing your dog to pull you to a specific spot every once in awhile will backfire on you. Each time you allow, you are using variable reinforcement, which will build more staying power into the pulling behavior. Before you know it, you will have your dog pulling you every which way and you will be frustrated, because you will have to start training at square one again.

Last, your training sessions should be no longer than 45 minutes. Puppies should have shorter sessions. If your dog seems bored, losing attention or making mistakes, it's probably time to take a break. Training should be fun and rewarding in order to build a positive relationship with your dog.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

PUPPIES!! Puppies are curious creatures with a lot energy. They cute, fun and tiring! Below, I have composed a couple of lists on how to "puppy proof" before you bring home your little fur ball of energy. I have divided the lists into indoor (orange) and outdoor (green) safety:

It seems like A LOT, right? But, there is more.... on to the outdoor safety...

In addition, make sure you do a thorough "walk around" your yard to make sure there are no hazards like broken glass, exposed nails and sharp objects to injure your puppy. Once these lists are completed, you can have peace of mind, but always remain alert and observant with your puppy.

Caring For Giant Dog Breeds

Giant dog breeds are any dog that will eventually weigh 100 + pounds. Though giant dogs are majestic to look at, they do require special care in order to ensure they live a relatively long, healthy life. If you noticed I used the word "relatively" in the last sentence, it's because in comparison to a regular sized dog, giant dogs have a shorter life span-- 6 to 10 years in comparison to the average 12 to 15 years of a "regular" dog. If you are considering adopting a giant dog, here are the "ins and outs" of care:

• Typically, giant dogs are very gentle, affectionate and loyal. They make great family pets. BUT, they must, must, must be trained and socialized starting at puppyhood. Otherwise, your gentle giant could end up a bulldozer which equals injuries for all living creatures in the vicinity. The good thing is that gentle giants are generally very trainable. Once they get older, their energy level decreases and they don't require as much exercise as a regular sized dog.
• Be prepared for COST. Giant dogs cost more money-- giant beds, giant toys that are tough, more food. More dog means more of everything. 
• Dog food-- a giant dog needs food specifically for giant dog breeds. It's best to work with your veterinarian on a diet for your individual dog. This is especially important when your giant is a puppy and growing, growing, growing.... which brings me to the next thing...
• Caring for your puppy--- you will need to work with your veterinarian to make sure you puppy isn't growing too fast. This can wreak havoc on your puppy's joints. Giant breeds are more prone to orthopedic problems... which also brings me to...
• weight control-- To avoid orthopedic/ arthritic issues in your giant dog's giant joints, you need to keep your dog's weight in check. More weight equals more stress on those delicate joints. A dog food that is specific to your giant breed, along with scheduled feeding times and adequate exercise should help keep your dog's joints healthy. Puppies require three meals per day to keep up with their growing rate.
• Living quarters-- a giant dog needs space with plenty of tail wagging room. Be prepared for things to get knocked over and broken. This is especially true for puppies. Puppies of giant breeds are generally very clumsy and don't reach their full weight and height until 2-4 yrs of age. Be prepared to be constantly cleaning up after your gentle giant. Drool might be on the ceiling and mealtime will be messy. In addition, be prepared to clean up after yourself-- all food should be off of counters (which will be right at head height for your dog). All garbage cans should be placed on top of the fridge when you are not at home. 
• Last but not least, Vet visits-- Your giant should go to the vet once to twice a year. Vet visits will be more frequent during puppy years when their growth needs to be monitored and during senior years (around 6 yrs of age) to ensure medical issues do not get out of control. 

With all that said, adopting a gentle giant is full of comedy, happiness and love. With the right preparation and knowledge of what you are getting yourself into, you will not regret your decision. 💗

Canine Ear Health

Ear problems are probably one of the top reasons dog owners visit the vet. A dog's ears should be regularly monitored in order to keep them healthy and infections at bay. Once an infection starts, it can become time-consuming for the owner and agony for the dog. Often, a two-prong attack is what is needed to find out what is causing a dog's ears to become infected and to provide relief. The owner needs to 1. consult a veterinarian for medication that will provide immediate relief and 2. Examine what environmental factors are causing the dog's ears to become irritated. It is important to stay on top of your dog's ear health. Prolonged ear infection can cause permanent damage to you furry family member's hearing.

A veterinarian's medication will provide immediate relief for your dog's ears, but if the environmental factors that are causing the problem are not fixed, ear infections will become chronic. Often, an ear infection is caused by a dietary allergy. Bacteria and yeast are naturally present in your dog's gut, but can get out of whack from excess amounts of grain and sugar. Another factor that can cause excessive bacteria and yeast is moisture. If your dog is a swimmer, it is important to dry out your dog's ears after swimming. Also, check your dog's ears for grass seeds after hiking. These little babies can get lodged into the ear causing your dog A LOT of pain. Sometimes, surgical removal is required. Often your veterinarian might suggest using an oil to soften the lodged seed. But this should only be done if recommended by your vet.

If your dog is showing signs of an ear infection, it is important to take your dog to the vet for a diagnosis of what is causing the infection. If an antibiotic is prescribed, it might be beneficial to supplement your dog's diet with a probiotic to keep your dog's gut in balance. Healthy ears will not require frequent cleaning. In fact, over cleaning your dog's ears can cause infections as well! If you need to clean your dog's ears, please make sure you only clean the visible part of the ear. Like humans, it is not a good idea to stick a q-tip or anything else inside the ear. This could cause damage or blockage.

There are many good ear cleaners on the market, but you can also make your own ear cleaner at home with consultation from a vet. I have pinned a few examples here. Frequent monitoring of your dog's ears will keep those ears floppy as well as perking up in all directions!

Hip Dysplasia

Hip Dysplasia is an inherited condition resulting from an improperly formed hip joint. In normal growth, the "ball and socket" portion of a hip would grow at an equal rate. In hip dysplasia, the ball and socket do not grow together at the equal rate. This causes the hip joint to eventually develop degenerative bone disease and/ or osteoarthritis. It should be noted, that the gene that causes hip dysplasia has not been conclusively identified. BUT, it is believed to be more than one gene. Diet also plays a crucial role in the development of hip dysplasia. Dogs that are genetically more prone to this condition are large breed dogs and purebred (though, all breeds large and small, can develop it).

Hip Dysplasia generally starts to show up around mid- late age for dogs. But in severe cases, puppies may show signs as early as 5-10 months of age. It is important that at-risk large breed puppies are given controlled exercise . This means you need to limit high-impact games while they are growing rapidly. Diet also plays a crucial role: If your at-risk puppy is eating commercial dog food, do not give them an added calcium supplement. It is recommended that they eat a special large-breed diet during their first year and that they eat the recommended amount so as not to become overweight. Growing too quickly and adding too much weight can impact their little joints.

As mentioned above: Purebred dogs are also "high-risk". When choosing a purebred puppy, purchase pups that are the offspring of OFA or PennHip certified parents. If the parents are not certified, choose from 2nd or 3rd litter parent dogs that have no mobility issues. Ask the breeder for a reference list of people who have bought puppies from them and contact those references! Do not purchase a puppy if parents are not available to be inspected by a 3rd party expert.

For more information, please read these links and do your own research! Knowledge is power:

• When Your Dog Has Hip Dysplasia, by Hines, Ron DVM PhD: http://www.2ndchance.info/hipdysplasiadog.htm 

•  Canine Hip Dysplasia, by American College of Veterinarian Surgeons: https://www.acvs.org/small-animal/canine-hip-dysplasia

• Hip Dysplasia, by ASPCA: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/hip-dysplasia 

•  Hip Dysplasia in Dogs, by VCA Animal Hospitals: http://www.vcahospitals.com/main/pet-health-information/article/animal-health/hip-dysplasia-in-dogs/783

Canine Head Shaking

 Head shaking in dogs is normal as long as it is infrequent. Dogs will naturally shake their heads to get something out of their ear (like a seed or bug) and usually, it is quite effective. BUT, if your dog starts to shake their head more frequently and it is persistent for more than a day and repeatedly, it is time to take your dog to the vet. 

Frequent head shaking can be caused by:

• Bacterial & Yeast infections
• Allergies
• Water in the ears
• A foreign object in the ear canal
• Inflammatory diseases
• Neurological disorders

If you notice your dog shaking their head repeatedly for more than a day, it is time to visit the vet. Continued head shaking can lead to ruptured blood vessels within a dog's ear flap (aural hematoma) which requires surgery. 

Canine Shedding

Most dogs shed, though there are some dogs that don't (Click here for a list of dogs that don't shed). Some dogs shed more than others. Some shed on a daily basis all year long, and some shed seasonally in the spring and fall. If you have a dog that sheds all year long, I feel for you, I really do. But, when should you start worrying that your dog's shedding problem is beyond the normal scope and is an actual health problem?

When you start to notice this:

Any of the above problems could be linked to an underlying health problem that will need to be addressed by a veterinarian. It could be anything: allergies, hormones, a dietary deficiency (or over abundance), stress or a skin condition like mites and ringworm. It's important for your veterinarian to properly diagnose what is causing your dog to abnormally shed in order for the right treatment to be administered.

If you dog has normal shedding that is driving you absolutely nuts-o, here is one thing you can do:

• Brush your dog daily with an undercoat rake. Most shedding is of the dog's undercoat with a little bit of actual fur. Take your dog outside and have some quality time of brushing out that undercoat. You couches, car and clothing will thank you.

Other than that, you can try some healthy coat vitamins and adjust your dog's food to something that is high quality. Fur is a common side effect of having animal love!

How To Tell If Your Dog Is Depressed

Dogs can suffer from depression, just like humans. But, dogs do not speak human. They speak dog and sometimes it's hard for us humans to figure out what they are saying. Here are 10 signs that your dog might be depressed. Please keep in mind that just because your dog may be exhibiting one of these signs, it does not necessarily mean they are depressed. A lot of these signs could also mean they are injured or sick. Bottom line, it's best to know your dog's personal language. Pay attention to how they communicate on a day to day basis in order to understand when your dog is acting out of the ordinary.

1. Change in Behavior: This is the most basic sign. Is your dog acting out of the ordinary? Have they lost interest in things that used to excite them? Example: Walks, favorite food, no longer greeting you at the door. The first thing to do is check out the environment. Have you had a new life change (new baby, a big move, ect..)? Sometimes, a dog will sense your own mood and act accordingly. It may be time to do your own self-reflection on whether you are in fact sad or stressed out. This could be causing your dog to feel the same way. Remember, that dogs are pack animals and if their leader is feeling sad or stressed, you canine will feel the same way. Though, they won't know why. They just know something is wrong with their leader.
2. Sleeping Pattern Changes: Usually a dog's sleeping patterns will fall in line with their human companion's. If you are noticing that you dog is particularly lethargic, they may be sad about something. BUT, they could also be sick or injured. Again, first check the environment for major changes. Next, take them to the vet to be reassured they are not sick. 
3. Pacing: Pacing is a repetitive, back and forth frantic walk in a path. If you dog is pacing, it could mean a myriad of emotions: boredom, frustration, agitation or they could be excited about something fun that is about to happen! Pacing can also mean illness or injury. An injured or sick dog may pace because they cannot get in a comfortable resting position. They are basically trying to wear themselves out to rest. Again, know your dog's normal day to day routine and language and check the environment for any new change.
4. Body Language: This is again assuming you know your dog's individual language. Some dogs are naturally timid and shy. Other dogs are more confident and boisterous. Some common body language signs that your dog is feeling sad are the eyes and the "passive stance". Generally, if a dog is avoiding eye contact, something is wrong. It does not necessarily mean that the eye contact has to be with you. It could mean that when you throw their favorite toy across the room, they refuse to look at it. Another common sign is a passive stance: walking or standing with their tail between their legs and head low. Sadness does not necessarily mean they are depressed. It could be just a temporary fleeting feeling they are feeling at that particular moment. 
5. Eating Habits: Has your dog's eating habits changed? Like humans, a dog can suddenly start eating more or less when they are depressed. Ideally, your dog should have scheduled feeding times. This allows you better monitor their health and notice any eating changes. Keep in mind, they may just be bored with their food and it's time for a switch up. If your dog is more of a free range feeder, you will need to weigh them on a regular basis to make sure they are not gaining or losing weight too quickly.
6. Aggression: This is more of a serious one. If your dog is showing signs of aggression, please take them to the vet to make sure they are not ill or injured. Period. 
7. Excessive Licking: (especially the paws!) Some dogs will exhibit and obsessive compulsion to lick themselves when something is bothering them. You must first check to make sure that they are not injured, have a skin irritation or allergy. If not, it could be an emotional response. 
8. Destructive Behavior: First, I must clarify. If you have a puppy, it's going to be destructive and it's your job to teach them boundaries. But, if you have a dog that was once calm and collective suddenly chewing up things, chances are something is wrong. They could be bored, mad, frustrated or depressed. First make sure that they are getting adequate mental and physical exercise. Next, check for major changes in the environment. It could be something as "silly" as a new smell in the house! If all of this has been addressed, you may need to seek a vet. 
9. Excessive Shedding: When I say "excessive shedding", I'm not talking about the day to day shedding of your dog. Dog's shed. Period. What you will be looking for is thin, bald spots of hair missing on your dog. If this is happening, please take your dog to the vet. Chances are, it's a health issue. But, it could also be an emotional reaction. 
10. Avoidance or Hiding: If your dog seems to be hiding in a corner or avoiding you or other family members, something is wrong. Again, it could be a major environmental change, it could be weather (like a thunderstorm) or it could be health related and need a vet's diagnosis.

Bottom line, the best way to tell if something is wrong with your dog is to pay attention to them everyday. Get to know your dog: What your dog likes, dislikes and how they communicate. If you do notice something is "out of the ordinary" with your dog, don't panic. First, assess the environment and try to decide if it is indeed emotional or if it's physical. Always consult your veterinarian, because even emotional issues may sometimes need a doctor's care. 💗

Canine Food Obsession

One thing you can always assume about a dog is that there is a 99.99999% chance they will never turn down food. True, there are some dogs that are a little more mature about mealtime than your average gobbler. And, some will walk away from a bowl when they are genuinely full. But, there are some dogs that are completely obsessed with food and act like they are starving to death all the time. If you have a food obsessed dog, the first thing you must do is take them to the vet to rule out a serious medical condition. Here are some of the physical reasons your dog may seem obsessed with food:

• Aging
• Bacterial overgrowth in the intestines
• Cushing's disease
• Diabetes
• Exocrine pancreatic insufficency
• Hyperthyroidism
• Reaction to medication
• Inappropriate diet

Once you have ruled out a medical condition, you may start to deduce that your dog's food obsession is psychologically based. There is a theory that dog's are opportunistic eaters with a hereditary trait from their wolf ancestors. Hardwired in their DNA is a feast or famine trigger from their hunting lineage. Hunting wise: when food is present, a dog will feast because there may be a time when food will be scarce. This isn't the case anymore with most dogs. The hunt is over-- Humans provide food on a daily basis, multiple times a day. But, that doesn't necessarily mean their hardwired genetics has changed. Evolution takes a long time. But, this theory has not been scientifically proven. It's just a theory and there are other psychological reasons your dog may be food obsessed:

•  A change in the environment- Has a family member moved out (aka: a member of the pack is missing)? Have you added a family member? Maybe you have moved? Maybe your dog isn't mentally or physically exercised adequately? If the answer is "yes", then you may have a stress eater on your hands. Find ways to reduce the stress in your dog's life and return to normalcy.
  
• Multiple dogs in the household- Is there a dog with food aggression? Is there a bully in the pack? Remember, you should be the pack leader and institute calm discipline within your pack.
• Learned Behavior: You may have accidentally trained your dog to be food obsessed through using too much food for positive behavior reinforcement. 😶
• Memories of Food Scarcity: This happens with rescue dogs that have been on the streets or abused. My first dog was a rescue dog that was food obsessed and eventually became obese (from my lack of knowledge on what to do). We had to put this dog on a diet, which caused the food obsession to become worse, which eventually became a huge behavior mess. That being said, there are things you can do to help your dog with food obsession! Read below--

What to do with a food obsessed canine family member:
The first thing you must do is establish a feeding ritual and schedule and stick to it. Your dog must realize that there are only specific times of the day when feeding time occurs. The feeding bowl must be taken away as soon as your dog has walked away from it and they must wait until the next feeding for food. Use treats only for training. Your dog must "work" for their treats (sit, stay, fancy trick, ect...) If your dog is a gobbler, you can purchase a special feeding bowl that is designed to slow down the eating chaos. OR, you can go with a cheaper route of putting a tennis ball in their bowl.

All in all, the bottom line is that food obsession could be psychological or medical. Both reasons are unhealthy for a canine and can end up causing obesity. Obesity is definitely a medical condition that limits the lifespan of your canine and causes more medical conditions to surface. It's best to not ignore your dog's obsession and deal with it as soon as possible.

Training: "Leave it" in 5 Steps

"Leave it" is a training skill that could potentially save your dog's life. Before you start to train your dog on how to leave something on the ground, it's best that they have already mastered "sit" and leash walking. Below, I have outlined how to teach your dog how to "Leave It", but first I would like to explain how to go about teaching your dog this skill:

1. Only teach your dog a new skill for about 15 minutes a day in 5 minute sessions. "Leave it" is a good skill to practice during commercial breaks. 😏 If you go all hard core on the training and do more than 15 minutes a day in 5 minutes sessions, you risk over saturating your dog and stressing them out.... or they will just become plain ol' bored with the task and not listen to you.

2. In my steps, you will see "P/R". This means "Praise and Reward". Praise= a "good job" or "good boy/girl!" with lots of happy enthusiasm. Reward= a treat. Usually pea sized treats are sufficient for training sessions. If your dog does not respond to food treats, you may need to get creative on what reward to use.

3. Do not move onto the next step until your dog has mastered the previous step. Mastering a step may take a few days. These steps are not meant to be blasted through in one day!

And now.... the steps!

Once your dog has mastered step five, you can move on to practicing with real life objects: table scraps, cat boxes, dirty diapers... pretty much all the gross stuff dogs like to get into that they really shouldn't. Once the skill is learned by your dog, make sure to practice it weekly in order to maintain the training! Otherwise, you may have to start all over again. 😞

Dog Breed Personalities

In the past, I have written about choosing a pure bred vs. a shelter dog, how to choose a shelter dog and how to choose a dog breeder. But, I have yet to write in  more detail about dog breed personalities and traits. I am not saying that every individual dog of a specific breed is basically a clone of another of the same breed. As all dog owners know, individual dogs will have their own quirky personality specifically for them. What I am saying is that when choosing a dog breed, you must know historically why that dog was bred. Once you have that gem of knowledge, understanding why your dog does what it does will help you ease a lot of training frustrations. After all, some things may just be a bit more hardwired into your dog than you think.

There are seven main dog breed groups in the dog world: Herding, Hound, Sporting, Terrier, Toy, Working and "non-working" (Basically, anything that doesn't fit into a nice tidy category). I provided examples of breeds for each group, but not every breed. You will need to research your dog's breed to know where it belongs if I have not provided it.

Herding: Australian Cattle Dog, Australian Shepard, Border Collie, Belgian Sheepdog, Bearded Collie, German Shepard, Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Puli and Shetland Sheepdog.

These dogs are smart and serious with a lot of energy. They can be territorial of "their" property (which might mean you, the owner) and can make a great watchdog. They have a tendency to bump and nip at people. This is an innate response from being historically bred to herd (which is also why they are territorial!) They are intelligent, easy to train, hard working and athletic. Companionship is also very important to them and they make great family dogs.

Hound: American Foxhound, Basset Hound, Beagle, Dachshund, Greyhound, Norwegian Elkhound, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Treeing Walker Coonhound and Whippet.

There are two types of hound dogs: scent hounds and sight hounds. Depending upon what type of hound you have, will determine the aspects of their traits. Scent hounds tend to be tough and slow. Sight hounds are agile and speedy. Both types are inquisitive, independent and INTELLIGENT. Hounds can be trained... if they want to be trained 😂. If they don't think your training is a worthwhile objective, they will simply ignore you. Owners must provide their hound with a secure area for exploration and when on walks a leash. Hounds tend to be so inquisitive, they will often wander off if left to their own devices.

Sporting: Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Pointer, Cocker Spaniel, Golden Retriever, Irish Setter, Korean Jindo Dog, Labrador Retriever, Weimaraner.

Sporting dogs are active, easy to train, friendly and alert at all times. They are great multi-taskers and bred to be hunters. If you have a water dog of this group, your dog will most likely want to spend the rest of their days swimming and at the lake's edge. Sporting dogs make great therapy and assist dogs. They need to be entertained and exercised. They are not a lazy man's dog, but they make an excellent family dog. I would recommend researching what the specific breed of your sporting dog and devise enrichment that suits their hunting style whether it is finding, pointing, flushing out, holding or retrieving.

Terrier: Jack Russell, Rat Terrier, Miniature Schnauzer, Scottish Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Welsh Terrier.

Terriers can be great fun. They can be high energy and be feisty. Therefore, parents of a terrier will also need high energy.  Historically, they were bred to be hunters of small animals and have a tendency to dig. Owners will need to provide "work" for them. In their mind "work" = "playtime"!

Toy Dog: Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chihuahua, Chines Crested Dog, Italian Greyhound, Maltese, Pomeranian and Pug.

Toy dogs were specifically bred to be companions. They are loyal, have a lot of character and can be territorial depending upon their upbringing and breed. Toy dogs do not need a lot of space, but do need a lot of cuddles and attention.

Working: Akita, Boxer, Great Dane, Mastiff, Portuguese Water Dog, Saint Bernard, Samoyed and Siberian Husky.

Working dogs are the most diverse of the dog groups. They were bred to help you whether it be pulling sleds, search and rescue or guarding livestock. These dogs are strong and smart. When properly socialized, they are super friendly and a good match for most people as long as there is lots of space, consistency and they are kept active. Because this group is so diverse, it is best to research your dog's specific breed of this group in order to understand what job your dog was historically bred to accomplish.

Non-Sporting Group: Bichon Frise, Boston Terrier, Bulldog, Dalmatian, Keeshond, Lhaso Apso, and Poodle.

Basically, a Non-Sporting dog is a grouping that was devised for breeds that used to be working dogs, but no longer perform the activity in which they were originally bred. They are also dogs that don't quite fit in the above categories. Maybe it's a small dog that isn't small enough to be a "toy" or a hunting dog that doesn't fit into the hound or sport category. Who knows. These dogs seem to be the most diverse when it comes to personality and can fit a number of different people or families. When it comes to a non-sporting dog, it's important to learn the dog's individual personality and back history before deciding whether it will be a good fit for you or your family.

Like I have said above, just because your dog belongs in one of these groups, does not necessarily mean it will be a clone. Every dog has it's own specific personality that is blending in with it's historical breeding. Understanding your dog's history whether it's breed or present day upbringing, can prepare you for communication and understanding of your specific dog.

Heartworms in Dogs

A heartworm is a parasitic worm that is transmitted by mosquitoes to your dog. It is easy to prevent, but can be difficult and costly to cure. Your dog can become infected when bit by a mosquito that is infected with the heartworm larvae. There is no way you can detect if a particular mosquito is infected, but it only takes a bite from ONE infected mosquito for the larvae to be transmitted to your dog.

Once the larvae has been transmitted to your dog, it takes about 7 months for it to mature into an adult heartworm. These little buggers travel through your dog's body and lodge into the heart, lungs and blood vessels to reproduce. Adult worms can get up to about a foot long and can live 5-7 years reproducing and causing permanent damage inside of your dog. A dog can get up to 250 worms inside there body! YUCK. If left untreated, the infestation will eventually kill your dog in a not so nice way.

Luckily, there are readily available preventatives you can give your dog in the form of monthly chew tablets (that dogs think are treats), monthly topicals and a 6-month injectable.  The preventatives are the way to go in terms of health and cost efficiency. If your dog already has heartworms, there is a treatment: Immiticide, which is an injectable arsenic based product that must be given 2- 3 times to your dog. The cost for treatment can range from $300-$1000 depending upon where you live. The catch to just relying on treatment instead of a preventative is that heartworms can cause serious permanent damage to your dog's heart, lungs and blood vessels. During treatment, your dog must remain quiet for several months afterward. As the worms die from the Immiticide, they break off into tiny pieces and can cause pulmonary blockage. Most deaths after treatment are caused by dogs exercising not from the actual treatment. If a dog gets heartworm and the owner has absolutely no way to pay for the treatment, the monthly preventative (Ivermectin) can be given instead. BUT, it takes about TWO YEARS for Ivermectin to eradicate the worms and in the meantime permanent damage to the heart, lungs and blood vessels will happen. In addition, heartworms are not a one time deal. Your dog can get repeat infections if not given the preventative.

How Can I Tell if My Dog Has Heartworms?
Initially, you dog will have no symptoms, but as the worms multiply and take up more space inside your dog, you will notice:

• A chronic cough
• Your dog will get easily tired from exercise
• Abnormal lung sounds
• Pass out from lack of blood to the brain
• Eventually death

 Can Heartworms Be Passed to Humans?
No. Heartworms are a specific parasite to dogs, cats and ferrets. It is VERY rare for a human to get heartworms and even if a human does become infected, the worm cannot complete it's cycle. Also, Heartworms cannot be transmitted from dog to dog. It must be transmitted through a mosquito. Even if a mosquito bites an infected dog and then bit an uninfected dog. There is an incubation period that has to take place inside the mosquito before it can transmit the larvae.  

The best way to keep your dog happy, healthy and free of these really gross parasites is to give your dog the preventative. Recommendations are to give your dog the preventative even in the cold months. Repetition breeds habit and humans are notorious for forgetting. If you stop giving your preventative in the winter, you are more likely to forget to give it to your dog in the high-risk seasons. For more information, please visit these sites:

Heartworms in Dogs: Facts and Myths, WebMD, http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/heartworms-in-dogs-facts-and-myths 

Heartworm Basics, American Heartworm Society, https://www.heartwormsociety.org/pet-owner-resources/heartworm-basics 

Heartworms, Pets and Parasites, http://www.petsandparasites.org/dog-owners/heartworms/

How Much Sleep Does a Puppy Need?

So you got a new puppy and for most of the day this little fur ball is the cutest thing in the world. But during particular times of day, your little wiggly butt turns into a beast of incessant barking and biting. Let's face it, those puppy teeth HURT. So what's up with that? Chances are, your puppy is tired and overstimulated. Puppies need A LOT of sleep, and I mean A LOT. Dog's sleep more than humans (lucky them), but a puppy needs more sleep than most people think. The younger the puppy, the more sleep they will need. A newborn puppy will sleep about 22 hours a day and use the rest of it's time for things like nursing. At 3-months, your puppy will need about 15-20 hours of sleep a day. This sleep is crucial for body development. Things like: building muscle, brain development and improving the immune system. If your puppy does not get enough sleep, you get a cranky, destructive teeth chomper that is at risk for infections and illness. NOT GOOD.

The problem is that, like human toddlers, puppy toddlers don't necessarily know when they should sleep. They want to play, play, play! It's your job, as the canine parent, to teach your puppy the appropriate sleep patterns.

How To Help Puppy Sleep:

• Create a sleep friendly environment: A dog can hear 4x's the distance of a human and has 125-300 million scent glands compared to a human's measly 5 million. Nap time for a puppy should be quiet and dark with minimal noise. This may mean having puppy in a separate room from all the other household activity. Adjusting the light and noise is critical to making sure your puppy is getting good sleep.
• Give your puppy new experiences, but allow them to process those experiences afterward: Taking your puppy to the park or downtown is great for proper socialization skills. But again, remember that a dog's senses are much different from our own. What you may consider a mundane walk through the neighborhood is an overwhelming amount of smells and noises to your puppy. Give your puppy new experiences, but give them time to sleep and process afterward.
• Exercise: It's always good to provide your dog with daily exercise. An under exercised dog will become frustrated and find not-so-good ways to express this frustration. But, on the flip side, an over exercised puppy will become cranky. It's the body's way of saying "Hey! I need sleep!"
• How to Handle a Cranky Puppy: If you find yourself in a situation where your puppy is barking, biting and overall just being a little terror. Don't just toss them in the crate and call it good.  Remember, a puppy might not realize he/she is tired! You must first find a way to calm your puppy and then put them in "the sleep zone". A crate should be a positive experience and should not be used for "punishment". If you are frustrated with your over-tired little fur ball, they will sense that frustration. Tossing them in the crate while frustrated will cause them to associate their crate to a negative feeling.  

 There are times when you should worry that your puppy is getting too much sleep and something might be wrong. Puppies, like human children, will sleep more during growth spurts, but if your puppy has low energy while awake, you may want to take them to the vet. Your puppy may be anemic or have an internal parasite. Anemia can be caused by things like a flea infestation and a flea infestation can lead to internal parasites like tape worms.

For more about sleep and dogs, please visit these other posts by Bark City:

• Rest: Why It's Important for Canines
• What Your Dog's Sleep Position Communicates

Breaking Up a Dog Fight

If you own a dog, there is a good chance you will at some point have to break up a dog fight. Especially, if you often take your furry friend to the dog park. Dog fights can be scary and can result in injury to you or your dog if you are not mentally prepared to deal with one. The worst thing you can do is A) Scream at the top of your lungs. This only escalates the situation. B) Grab a dog's head and/ or neck area. This will result in you getting bit. and C) Keep a hold of the leash, if your dog has one on. This will result in entanglement and possible injury to one of the parties involved. If your dog has a leash on and is in a fight, the best thing you can do is immediately drop the leash. So, what should you do if you happen to find yourself in the middle of a dog fight? First and foremost, keep your cool. Next, here are some helpful tips:

When it comes to dog fights, the best thing to do is recognize the situation before it arises by knowing how dogs communicate. Usually, there is one dog that is the aggressor and the other dog is merely on the defense. Once you recognize which dog is initiating the fight, use the above techniques to stop that dog. Once that dog is stopped, the other dog that is just protecting itself, will most likely stop. Other methods of stopping a dog fight are to spray the dogs with water or bang an object that will make a loud noise. But, these tips are only really useful if you are at home and have access to such things that will spray water or will make a loud noise. Once you have broken up the fight, check to see if the dogs want to keep fighting or have calmed down. Dogs that want to keep fighting, may have underlying behavioral problems.

A dog owner can usually notice aggression problems within their dog when their dog reaches puberty: 6-9 months old, when the become socially mature: 18-36 months old or if they are not spayed or neutered. Even low levels of aggression should be taken seriously. If not successfully dealt with, low levels can eventually escalate into an out of control problem. Here are some signs that your dog will exhibit when they are aggressive:

• Growling
• Lip biting
• Snapping
• Lunging

A dog that is often the target of another dog will show these signs of fear:

•  Crouching
• Tucking of the tail between the legs
• Licking the lips 
• Backing away

It is important for a dog owner to know the difference between play posture and true aggression. In order to deal with aggressive behavior, the owner must start training right away by:

• Sidetracking the bad behavior with a good behavior
• Give verbal cues followed by action. Example: If your puppy bites your hand, immediately say "Ouch!" and stop playing.
• Give your dog a time out right when they exhibit aggressive behavior.
• Don't engage in aggressive roughhousing. Some puppies have a low arousal threshold. Playful roughhousing can quickly result in aggressive fighting with these types of puppies.

For more information, please see these links (or look for your own!):

How to Safely Break Up a Dog Fight, The Whole Dog Journal: http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/5_12/features/5505-1.html

Yes, There is A Smart Way To Break Up a Dog Fight, The Dodo: https://www.thedodo.com/yes-there-is-a-smart-way-to-break-up-a-dog-fight-1488888838.html 

How to Safely Break Up a Dog Fight, The Dogington Post: http://www.dogingtonpost.com/how-to-safely-break-up-a-dog-fight/

Free Or Scheduled Feeding For Your Dog?

 How often and how much should you be feeding your dog? There are two schools of thought when it comes to mealtimes: Free feeding or scheduled feeding. Both have pros & cons and it really depends upon  your lifestyle as well as your dog's personality & health. Which ever way you feed your dog, it is important that you are feeding them a high quality dog food that is recommended for your dog's specific breed. It is also recommended that you only feed the recommended daily amount to avoid obesity. 

Free Feeding

Free feeding is easier on the owner, for sure. You don't have to worry about getting home at a specific time to feed your dog. Believe me, animals are creatures of schedule. They know when dinner time is right down to the second. Free feeding is also good for active pets and puppies that need the extra calories. 

The downside of free feeding is that there is an increased risk for obesity if you do not monitor how much food your dog is getting in a day. It also diminishes the structure hierarchy of the household-- Your dog may not realize that you are the one providing the food. In addition, it will be harder to notice appetite shifts. An appetite shift can often be the first clue of a health problem with your dog.  Finally, if your dog is a gobbler, you may want to steer away from free feeding. Gobbling up a bunch of food at once can lead to gastric dilation volvulus which is a life threatening condition.

A few rules of thumb for free feeding to help combat the cons listed above:

• Designate a specific area for feeding. 
• Only feed the recommended amount a day.
• If you have a gobbler, try dividing the recommended amount and disperse throughout the day. 
• Caution: Canned and raw food cannot be left out for long periods of time. This leads to harmful bacteria growth. If you want to add canned or raw food to your dog's diet, give it to them at a time when you can take it away soon afterward. 

Scheduled Feeding:

Scheduled feeding is definitely best for multiple dog households. You will know who is eating what-- Sometimes, there will be one dog in the pack that is a "food bully" whereas another dog will not be getting enough nutrients. Or, in another scenario, different dogs will require different food. In addition, you are more likely notice when there is an appetite shift. This will allow you to closely monitor for a health problem. Finally, it establishes a schedule & a hierarchy. It's easier to establish who's at the top of the pack--you! You bring the food! Dogs thrive on a consistent schedule.

The downside, it is a little more stressful for a dog owner, because you bring the food at specific times. It's more time consuming. Dogs are creatures of habit & will definitely let you know when it is mealtime. Be prepared for longing looks and whines if you are delaying the food! The other downside is that your dog may not be getting enough calories. As always, you will need to monitor how much your dog is eating.

A few rules of thumb for scheduled feeding:

• Adult dogs should be feed twice a day. If you have a gobbler, you could split it into smaller portions three times a day.
  
• Puppies should be fed 3-4 times a day.
• Feed the recommended amount. 
• Designate a specific area of feeding.

Choosing whether you free feed or establish a schedule is up to you and the type of dog you have. There is no right or wrong answer. The bottom line is to always feed your dog a high quality food that is meant for their breed and the correct amount. Last, whichever feeding style you adopt, be on the lookout for behavior changes and aggression around food. This will allow you to know when a health problem is arising.

Hypothermia in Canines

Hypothermia is a dangerous drop in body temperature and can be caused by more than just being outside in the cold for long periods of time. There are a lot of factors that play into whether or not your dog is at risk of hypothermia, some of them include:

• Very young or old dogs.
• Dogs under anesthesia.
• Smaller breeds, because they experience faster loss of body heat. 
• Diseases of the hypothalamus (example: hypothyroidism). The hypothalamus is responsible for regulating and maintaining body temperature. 
• Shock
• And... of course... if your dog has been out in the cold or the skin/ fur has been wet for a long period of time.

So, how do you know if your dog has hypothermia? A dog's normal body temperature is higher than a human's. The normal range is from 101-102.5F. When it drops to a human range of body temperature (97.6- 99.6F), they are in danger of hypothermia. In fact, if your dog's body temperature drops below 98F, you should seek a veterinarian immediately.

The first signs of hypothermia is excessive shivering and lethargy. You should also check for frostbite: When areas of the skin, particularly the tail, ears and paws, become pale, gray and/ or bluish. These areas can also feel cold or brittle and be painful when touched. Sometimes, the frost bit areas will also swell and form blisters. To check your dog's body temperature, click this link.

Here is a handy temperature chart. Remember if your dog is below 98F, TAKE THEM TO THE VET.

What to Do:
(Remember, if your dog's temperature is below 98F, seek a veterinarian immediately!)

1. Throw some blankets in the dryer to warm them up. Then, wrap your dog in the warm blankets.
2. Wrap a warm water bottle in a towel and place on your dog's stomach. Do not place the warmed water bottle directly on the stomach without wrapping it. This may cause a burn on your dog's stomach.
3. If your dog is alert, give him/her warm fluids to drink. 
4. Try to keep your dog still. Moving around will cause more body heat to be lost.
5. Take your dog's temperature every 10 minutes. Once your dog is at a normal temperature, take them to the veterinarian to check for long term damage. 

Winter can be a wonderful time to go out hiking and playing in the snow, but just because your dog has fur, does not mean they can withstand extreme temperatures. Always pay attention to the signs your dog is giving you that they may be cold. In addition, prepare your dog for cold weather. investing in a good dog coat and booties is always a good idea if you are going to be outside for a long duration of time. Lastly, never leave your dog unattended outside in the cold.

Additional links:

• Hypothermia: Keeping Your Dog Safe in the Cold, Cesar's Way, https://www.cesarsway.com/dog-care/safety/Hypothermia-Keeping-your-dog-safe-in-the-cold 
• Hypothermia in Dogs, Doctors Foster and Smith, http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1677&aid=301 
• Low Body Temperature in Dogs, Vetary, https://www.vetary.com/dog/condition/low-body-temperature

5 Ways Your Are Ruining Your Dog

I've already written about 8 Things That Drive Your Dog Crazy, Top Ten Rules For Children Around Dogs and Why Socializing Your Dog With Other Dogs is Important. All of these are important topics to raising a well-rounded, balanced dog. But, one topic I have yet to write about are human behaviors that are downright ruining the dog. There are many of these behaviors, but I will just focus on the five most prevalent:

1. Yelling at an aggressive / barking dog: This just doesn't work, because your dog doesn't speak human. Dogs that are barking excitedly or fearfully are stressed out. When you yell at them while they are barking, you are just adding to the stress which ultimately leads to more barking. They basically think, "Oh, hey! Now I have my human barking too! Yes!" A better idea is to distract your dog from whatever is causing the barking with their favorite game. OR, even better, teach your dog how to bark on command. I know this seems counter intuitive, but if you are teaching your dog how to bark on command, you are also teaching the "no bark" command. 😉
2. Punishing Your Dog After The Incident. If you have discovered that your dog has chewed up your favorite shoes or exploded garbage all over the kitchen hours after the incident, it's too late. Your dog will not know why you are punishing them. Their memory is not that long term and they will associate the punishment with whatever is happening at the moment-- which could be you approaching them. You need to catch your dog exactly at the moment of action. At that point, instead of punishment, you should use redirection or a command such as "drop it". With a reward once the behavior is corrected. 
3. Comforting Your Dog When They Are Scared. Comforting = attention in the dog world. If you are comforting your dog when they are scared, you are basically rewarding their scared behavior. Be aware of the tone in your voice as well. Most humans will use a higher pitched, "baby talk" when trying to calm their dog. This just sounds like whining to your dog. Which, in turn, escalates their nervousness. A more positive way of helping your scared dog is to act normal during a scary event. You can even distract them by playing a game you would normally play. Just make sure you keep your own behavior in check (normal energy level and a calmness). Also, never force your dog to confront whatever is scary. 
4. Scolding Your Dog For Peeing On The Floor. There are many reasons why your dog may be peeing on the floor: territorial marking, health issues, not completely potty trained, ect. You must first assess why your dog in urinating inappropriately. One reason that often gets overlooked is Submissive Urination. Your dog is urinating on the floor to show you that you are in charge. In this situation, the worst thing you can do is stand over your dog, yelling at them and challenging them with direct eye contact. Instead, upon greeting them at the door, you should get down to their level by kneeling and avoid making eye contact or another option is to completely ignore until they are calm. 
5. Do Not Use Your Dog's Name In A Negative Way. Using your dog's name to call them before a bad experience will just make them avoid coming to you. Period. Example: Your dog hates baths. Calling them to come to you and then putting them in the tub is a bad idea. 

I hope these bring a little light into the world of a dog's mind. Please remember that if you make a mistake, it's ok. Just remember to move forward and do better next time! Speaking different languages often results in miscommunication. With a little insight, we can help your furry family member become a well adjusted, balanced family member. 

Top 10 Rules for Children Around Dogs

Cute picture of the child hugging the dog, huh? But, it is images like these that compel me to write a blog about teaching children rules for being around dogs. There are certain elements of respect that we would give humans that also should be given to dogs. If we follow these rules, accidental dog bites and injuries should be kept at bay:

1. Do not hug a dog. Yes, humans like hugs, but dogs don't and dogs are not humans! Hugs make dogs nervous. Dogs can be trained to tolerate hugs, but it's not really their cup of tea and they would rather you stay out of their personal bubble. 
2. No Running. Children must be trained not to run up to a dog. This could startle or scare the dog. In addition, children should not run in front of a dog even while playing with the dog. This could trigger the prey instinct in a dog and will often result in a child getting nipped in the butt or getting knocked down and bitten. 
3. Don't touch body parts. Dogs should be pet from head to the base of the tail in a stroking motion with the palm of the hand. Children should not pull ears and tails or be messing around with the legs, paws, ect... Yes, adult humans should train their dog to tolerate the legs, paws, ears, etc... to be handled for veterinarian examination purposes. This is for training not for child's play. 
4. Leave your dog alone while he/she is eating. Let's put it this way-- Would you like it if someone came up and placed their hand in your dinner plate? Probably not. Please, when a dog is eating, give him/her space to eat in peace.
5. Do not steal a dog's toys. Instead, teach your dog "drop it" if you really need the toy. But don't just grab it out from under them. It's rude!
6. Leave your dog alone while he/she is sleeping. Same as with eating--Would you really want someone messing with you while you are taking your much beloved nap? Probably not.
7. Loud noises hurt dog's ears. A dog's hearing is WAY more sensitive than a human. For Parents: You know how frazzled you get when your kids are running and screaming through the house? Now imagine that you can hear 4 times the distance and higher frequencies. That is a dog's hearing. A frantic, loud household= an over stimulated dog.
8. Do not tease your dog. They don't understand teasing and it's not funny to them. All it will do is build a level of distrust in your relationship.
9. Crates are safe places. Please train your children that if Fido goes to his/her crate, it's alone time. This is an area that should be comforting and quiet for them. 
10. Playtime has ended. Children should learn how to read their dog's language to know when playtime has ended. If your dog is walking away, they are done. On the flip side, Dog's should be trained to know when playtime has ended! 

 Please be consistent with these rules with your children. It will make your furry family member feel secure and safe knowing that "the pack" is being respectful of boundaries. In turn, this will reduce the risk of bites and injuries for the small two-legged family members.