Caring For a Pregnant Dog

 Is your dog pregnant? Or maybe you think your dog could be pregnant. Or maybe, you are considering breeding? Whichever is the case, you need to be prepared to give your pregnant dog the love and special care she needs while she is busy growing puppies in her belly. Here is a list of ways you can support your pregnant dog as she prepares for whelping (delivery):

Signs that your dog may be pregnant:

• Increased appetite
• Weight gain
• Increased nipple size
• Swollen belly
• Tires more easily
• Nesting behavior
• More affectionate
• Irritable

Keep in mind that all of these signs could also be different medical conditions other than pregnancy. You must go to a veterinarian to determine if your dog is pregnant or it is something else. 

How to tell if your dog is pregnant:

You have noticed the signs stated above and are taking your dog to the vet to determine pregnancy. A dog's pregnancy only lasts about 62-64 days depending upon the breed. The sooner you bring your dog to the vet, the better. There are different ways your vet can determine if it's a pregnancy:

• Palpation: Starting at about 28-30 days, you can start to feel the puppies. They will feel like little golf balls or grapes in the abdomen. This is the fluid filled sac around the fetus. Abdominal palpation should only be done by a veterinarian. Otherwise, you risk injuring the puppies. 
• Ultrasound: At around 25-35 days of gestation, your veterinarian can listen for the fetal heart beats. This will also help your vet determine approximately how many puppies are in the litter. 
• Hormone Test: At around 25-30 days, your veterinarian can measure your dog's hormones to determine pregnancy. 
• X-ray: At around 55 days, the skeletal system of the puppies has developed and your vet can perform an x-ray to get an accurate count of how many puppies to expect. 

Caring for a pregnant dog:

• Proper nutrition is key to helping your dog through pregnancy. If your dog is already on a high quality food and is at a healthy weight, you do not need to change her diet for the first 2/3 of the pregnancy unless directed by a veterinarian. During the last few weeks of pregnancy, you may need to increase your dog's food intake if this is recommended by your vet. 
• You can continue to give your dog her normal exercise routine until her belly is enlarged. Then, you will want to change to shorter, more frequent and less strenuous exercise. Light exercise will also help your expecting mother keep her energy up for whelping.
• Regular vet visits are key. Your veterinarian will want to make sure your dog is up to date on vaccinations and take a fecal sample to make sure your dog does not have internal parasites. A de-wormer may be recommended at this time as well. The vet will also determine if there are any anatomical or mechanical concerns for delivery. Finally, you will also want to discuss with your vet an emergency plan during whelping.

Prepping for pups:

Before the puppies arrive, you will want to either build or purchase a whelping box. This is a box that is safe, warm and draft free for the mother and pups. It should be easy for the mother to enter and exit, but the puppies cannot get out. You will want to introduce the mother to the whelping box to get her comfortable with it before delivery-- otherwise, you may find your dog having her puppies in other areas besides the whelping box-- like a closet, under a porch, etc....

If this is your first time delivering pups, you should also find someone experienced with whelping. Ask them questions on what to expect & have them available during delivery. You need to do lots of research and reading on what to expect and when something may be going wrong during delivery.

Check List: Here are the things you will want to have on hand during the delivery process--

• Non-skid bath mats for bedding after whelping is done.
• Dry clean towels
• Paper towels
• Thermometer
• Clean sterilize scissors
• Unwaxed dental floss
• Iodine
• A heat lamp placed up high and to one side of the box to allow the mother and pups to choose either warmth or a cool place.
• A bulb for cleaning the puppies mouth & nose
• Baby scale
• Veterinarian & emergency room phone numbers.

Labor signs: 

Your dog may stop eating a couple days prior to whelping and start to nest. If you notice this, you will want to give your vet a quick call to confirm. Many dogs will begin to pant. For the most part, your dog will naturally know what to do and you are there just in case there are complications. Here are some more links you can read to further prepare you for a little of cute, little furballs: 

Caring for Pregnant Dogs and Preparing for Birth (thesprucepets.com)

Dog Pregnancy: Signs, Care, and Preparing for Puppies – American Kennel Club (akc.org)

Dog Pregnancy, Labor, and Puppy Care Guide | PetMD

Sensory Overstimulization In Dogs

Many successful dog trainers have done wonders for dogs through positive reinforcement training and behavior modification, but there are some dogs where the rules just don't seem to apply. They need extra help. It's not because these dogs are overly aggressive, trying to dominate you or are basically non-compliant, it's because they are overwhelmed by the world! Every little butterfly, rustling tree leaf, scent or motion seems to send them into overdrive. 

 
How can you tell if your dog is overstimulated?

• Hyperactivity: Boredom and over-stimulation can often look alike. If you are regularly exercising your dog (mentally and physically) and they still seem to be going bonkers, you may want to evaluate whether you are over doing it and your dog is over stimulated. Yes, dogs like humans can be over-trained.
• Hiding: Dogs will often try to find a place to hide that is quiet and dark when they are over stimulated. If your dog is hiding somewhere, check your environment. If you have children in the house, make sure they are following proper dog etiquette with boundaries. Let's face it, kids need to be loud and super active sometimes, but that often does not mix with canines. Allowing your dog to have a place to retreat will minimize the risk of nipping, biting and "accidents" that cause injury to your two-legged family members. Same goes when you have guests over. Sometimes, the human life can be just too much for your canine. 
• Nipping and Biting: Again, please re-read the above about hiding. Your dog will first try to retreat to a quiet place before resorting to nipping and biting. Sometimes though, dogs nip and bite when they are playful. It's how dogs play with each other. Your job as a human parent to a dog, is to recognize when the playing has gone too far and your dog is starting to get overstimulated. Try to keep playtime to a duration where your dog does not get over stimulated and in addition, invest the time to train your dog not to nip & bite while playing with humans.  
• Compulsive Behavior: Tail chasing, constant licking and spinning in circles can all be compulsive behaviors. Yes, puppies and kitties will tail chase and spin in circles in normal play, but there can be a point where it becomes compulsive and cause injury. If these behaviors are becoming compulsive, chances are your dog is over stimulated. 

If your dog seems to be hitting the above criteria as an overstimulated dog, the first thing you must do is  take your dog to the vet for lab work to eliminate the possibility of a medical issue. The next thing you need to do is check your environment. Is your household overly active without an escape option for your dog? Are you stressed out? Do you lead an overly hectic lifestyle or get easily frustrated when training your dog? If so, you probably need to re-assess your lifestyle and find ways to simplify and control your own frustration. When training your dog, you must remain calm. If everything is as cool as a cucumber and medical problems have been eliminated, there are products and methods out there to help your dog:

• DAP (dog-appeasing pheromone) : This pheromone mimics the scent of a lactating mother dog. It is said to help calm about 80% of dogs. It can come as a collar, a spray or a plug-in. 
• Thunder Shirt: This is a snug wrap that is often used for canines with a thunder phobia. It can also be used to calm dogs in busy kennels.
• BACH Rescue Remedy: This is developed for humans, but many trainers often use it on canines as well. It is a blend of medicinal flowers designed to help deal with immediate problems. For more information click here. 
• Eye Contact Game: This behavior modification technique is part of Chris Bach's The Third Way training program: "[The trainer] uses food to reward a dog’s choice to do something right and simply interferes with a dog’s choice to do something wrong. By utilizing THE THIRD WAY’S exclusive teaching and proofing processes and without force or punishment, owners teach dogs how to ignore food and obey cues. As a result, they are very reliable in the face of strong distractions and are not dependent upon food to be accurate and willing performers. Dogs learn what owners want." 
• T-touch: Is a massage technique that employs circular movements of the fingers and hands all over the body to activate cell function and awaken cellular intelligence. You can find out more here. 
• Socialization: There is a critical period in which puppies must be socialized: 4-16 weeks of age. But, dogs must also be socialized after that period on a continuous basis. Proper socialization is key to dog behavior. There are dogs, especially rescue dogs with abused pasts, that normal socialization will just not work. These dogs may never have a normal life and owners will need special vigilance to give them an environment conducive to their individual needs. 
• Calm Hand Strokes: When your dog is anxious about a situation or over stimulated, sometimes calmly petting your dog in long, slow strokes on the back while avoiding the head works wonders. The key to this technique is that the owner must be calm.
• Anti-anxiety medication: Medication can be used after all other options have been exhausted or as a way to calm your dog in order to effectively institute other methods. These options should be discussed with your veterinarian and a professional dog trainer. 

Keep in mind when trying new products and techniques with your canine, that you should try one thing at a time and give 2 weeks to a month before you switch or add on. This will allow you to know what is and isn't working. Always let your veterinarian know what products/ techniques you are using on your dog. Finally, keep in mind, that sometimes you need to bring in a professional trainer for help. 

For more information, go to these links:

• 5 Ways to Calm a Hyper Dog, The Dogster: http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-puppy-training-behavior-calm-overstimulated 
• Is Sensory Overstimulation Stressing Your Dog?, PetHelpful: https://pethelpful.com/dogs/Understanding-Sensory-Overstumulation-in-Dogs
•  4 Signs Your Dog is Overstimulated, I (heart) Dogs: https://iheartdogs.com/4-signs-your-dog-is-overstimulated/ 

Cold and Flu Season for Canines

Do you ever have days where you feel like this?

You just don't want to get out of bed. You feel tired, lethargic and you're thinking you might be coming down with a cold or flu. It happens to all of us... unless you live in a bubble. It also happens to dogs.

Canine Influenza is a virus that is transmitted from dog to dog. Humans cannot become infected. Symptoms are similar to human flu: coughing, sneezing, runny nose and fatigue. Sometimes dogs can be asymptomatic (they carry the virus, but show no symptoms). If you suspect your dog is under the weather, please take them to the vet. Although, canine flu is rarely serious, it can become serious if not treated properly: high temperature, difficulty breathing, pneumonia and/or bleeding in the lungs. Plus, you will want to rule out any other medical issues that are not the flu. Once your dog has officially been diagnosed with the flu, your vet will decide the appropriate treatment: rest, lost of fluids, maybe medication...rest...more rest... and quarantined to the house with no contact to other dogs until they recover. There is a vaccine, but the vaccine won't help if your dog already has the flu. It's similar to a human flu shot, your dog will need to get the shot before the flu season starts and it will not promise you a long, happy, virus free, bounding, slobbering through snow drifts winter...it just eases the blow to your pup's body.

Please remember that if your dog is under the weather, vomiting or has diarrhea, please keep them at home until they get better. Also remember that if your dog does get a cold or flu, like humans, these things happen sometimes.  The only way you can be completely sure your dog will not catch a virus is to isolate them from all dog contact and that would be a pretty lonely life. We at Bark City work diligently to keep our facility clean: Our facility is set up with 3 different air circulation systems (one for the standard side, one for the enrichment program, and one for the training room), we spray down and disinfect all of our yards twice a day and disinfect all indoor space and toys daily, we have also laid down our turf correctly with proper drainage (read here on why that's important). Even with all our effort, sometimes those asymptomatic dogs sneak past. 

As the cold and flu season sets upon us (and our canine companions), let us prepare the best we can. Bone broth and kleenexes anyone? 

This dog isn't really sick. He is just really tired from playing too much at Bark City.

Choosing a Shelter Dog

You have decided to adopt a shelter dog--- Congratulations! You have chosen to save a life and provide a second chance for a dog that has had a bad turn in life. There are certain things you must do before you adopt and things you will need to do once your dog is part of your family.

Before You Adopt: 

• First and foremost-- decide how many dogs you want, because you will want them all when you walk into that shelter. Stick to that number. 
• Decide what kind of dog you want. Do you want a small dog or a big dog? And active dog or a laid back dog? An adult dog or puppy? You will want to try to find a dog that fits your lifestyle. Stick to the plan. If you are planning on getting a small dog, don't come home with a Great Dane. 
• Research, research, research-- Do you know what you will be feeding your dog? How much exercise your dog will need? What things are essentials for getting a dog (bed, bowls, leash, crate, ect...)? What vet are you going to use? What do you need to do to get a dog license in your city? What kind of paperwork do you need to adopt a dog? Buy those things.
• Lay down ground rules for your humans before the dog comes home. There should also be rules for your new four-legged family member and all humans should stick to these rules. Will your new dog be allowed on the furniture? Where will he eat? Who will feed him? Bathroom schedule? ect.... The more consistency and less stress in the household, the better.
•  Do you have other animals in the house and how are you going to transition them?  

At The Shelter: ** First and foremost: Remember that a shelter is a stressful place for animals. Any animal you are considering will be under some amount of stress.

• Ask Questions: Don't be afraid to ask questions about animals you are interested in adopting-- Why is this dog at the shelter? Are there any medical issues? If so, consider whether you have the financial means to take care of the vet bills. Has it had a temperament test?
• Watch and assess the dog you are considering from a distance: Is it sitting calm and watching? Is it engaging with people in friendly manner? Is it exhibiting signs of stress (pacing and whining)? Do you have a super-excited dog on your hands (jumping, barking, ect)? Is there aggressive traits, such as lunging, growling and charging? Is this dog fearful (won't approach you, hunching and hiding)? 
• Walk up to the kennel and watch the dog's language. 
• Take the dog to a quiet room. Does the dog pay attention to you? Or is he trying to hide and ignore you? Try to gently pat the dog, how does the dog react? Offer the dog a toy or treat and see what happens. Do they take it gently? Growl? Ignore? 
• Take the dog for a short walk (if the shelter will allow): How does the dog react to surroundings? Are they barking at everything and pulling at the leash? Are they hiding behind you and fearful?

 All of the above will help you assess the dog's personality and temperament, but will not give you a perfect guarantee. Remember, to keep your two-legged family lifestyle in mind as well. If you choose a dog that is scared and fearful, you will need to give them a little bit more patience and a longer time to transition at their new home and to new surroundings. A fearful, scared dog will not do well in a home of people who like to throw parties. If you have small children, you may not want to get a big, adult dog that likes to jump up on people. 

Once Home:

• At first, limit your dog to one area of the house and slowly open up new areas as they get used to things. 
• Keep you dog on a leash while in the house for the first few weeks while he learns house rules. BUT, never leave your dog on a leash unsupervised.  
• Do not leave your rescue dog unsupervised with current household pets. 
• Limit the amount of guests you bombard your new dog with for the first few weeks. Remember that your rescue dog is coming from a stressful situation (the shelter) to a new stressful situation (a new home) and learning new rules.
• Establish the rules and keep consistent with the rules. Consistency is key with all dogs. 
• Remember that accidents will happen and that training is lifelong---Consistency and patience!
• Dog's are den dwellers-- provide a crate for your dog, but do not use it as a punishment box. A crate should be their private den that allows them to retreat from stress.   

 Last but not least, remember that whether you are getting a purebred puppy or rescuing a shelter dog, ENVIRONMENT PLAYS A HUGE ROLE in a dog's behavior. A shelter dog can come from deplorable conditions and through love and patience become the best family dog ever. You can also have a dog that comes from a perfect breeder and become a nightmare if left with humans that have no idea how to communicate and train a dog. Pets are an unwavering commitment of time, love, money, patience and responsibility. 
 

What To Do When Your Dog Vomits

Let's face it, if you own a dog or cat, you are used to vomit. Usually when an animal throws up, it is benign-- your animal is trying to expel something unwanted from their stomach. But when the throwing up suddenly becomes unrelenting, it could be a sign of a serious condition that ranges anywhere from head trauma, toxin exposure, obstruction, cancer or a myriad of other conditions that a veterinarian will need to diagnose. So how are you to tell when it's time to go to the vet? Let's look below:

First you need to decide if your dog is vomiting or regurgitating food:

Pay close attention to these signs in order to easily tell your veterinarian for a quicker diagnosis. Whether it is vomiting or regurgitation, if it is happening frequently, you should probably seek a vet.
If it is not frequent, then you can administer these steps:

1. Do not give your dog food and take away the water bowl for 12-hrs after "the incident".
2. Give your dog ice cubes to lick or 3 Tablespoons of water every 1/2 hr.
3. After 12 hours, reintroduce the water bowl with clean water (you may want to go as far as washing the water bowl).
4. After 12- 24 hours of initial vomit, give your dog a mixture of rice and chicken. The ratio of rice per chicken should be 1 part chicken: 5 parts rice. Do not over do the feeding though, only give your furry friend 2-3 teaspoons as a test run. If no vomiting occurs, give 2-3 teaspoons every hour or two. 
5. If no vomiting happens after a day of the chicken/rice diet, you can return to a normal diet.

If for some reason your dog continues to vomit, it's time to see the vet. If you notice any of these signs with vomiting, please see your veterinarian RIGHT AWAY:

 
A sick, vomiting dog also runs the risk of dehydration or shock. It is a good idea to frequently check for these symptoms while Fido is under the weather:

Again if you notice any of these signs, seek veterinarian advice. Your dog may need to have IV fluids administered. Once your dog is on the mend, it is good to take preventative measures to avoid more mishaps:

• Diet changes should be gradual. 
• Monitor chew toys for broken bits and pieces that your dog may want to eat. These can cause obstructions.
• Dog bones and raw hide bones are a prime culprit of obstructions and vomiting. 
• Try to keep your dog from scavenging. This can cause a serious case of "garbage gut".

Remember, a dog throwing up every now an then is perfectly normal and there is no need to panic. A dog throwing up constantly, should go to the vet. Always be watchful of what your dog is doing (and eating!) to keep your pup's stomach as even as possible.

Helpful links:

• Vomiting in Dogs, Pet MD: http://www.petmd.com/dog/emergency/common-emergencies/e_dg_vomiting
• Dehydration in Dogs, Pet MD: http://www.petmd.com/dog/emergency/common-emergencies/e_dg_dehydration
• Vomiting in Dogs, Doctors Foster and Smith:http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2090&aid=3574
• Dog Shock, Recognition and Emergency Treatment, Vet Info, https://www.vetinfo.com/dog-shock-treatment.html 

5 Steps for Canine Heart Health

Heart disease affects dogs differently than humans. A heart disease that is more common in humans-- coronary artery disease-- is quite rare in dogs. What is more common in dogs is congestive heart failure, which is the weakening of the heart muscle. But, there are steps you can take in order to help maintain your dog's heart health:

1. Diet: Your dog needs a balanced, high-quality food. Period. They key is to research and figure out what kind of diet is recommended for your dog's breed. Yes, different breeds need different diets. If you are going the kibble route, it's always wise to research whole foods that can be mixed into your dog's kibble. It is also important to keep your dog's weight in check. Obesity puts a great strain on a dog's heart. So, maintaining an ideal weight is key. 
2. Cardio Exercise: One way you can keep your dog's weight in check is with regular cardio exercise. Not only do dogs love it, but it also strengthens the heart muscles. Plus, a tired dog = a dog that is less likely to cause mischief!
3. Prevent Heartworm: Heartworm is a parasitic worm that is transmitted by mosquitoes. Once your dog has heartworms, it is extremely costly to treat and can cause irreparable damage: inflammation of the blood vessels, restricted blood flow, pulmonary embolism and heart failure. Luckily, there is a preventative which comes in the form of a monthly chew tablet or topical and a 6-month injection. For more information on heartworms, you can click on this link.
4.  Dental Care: Proper dental care is a must and I have a blog post right here to give you handy recipes for "dog paste" as well as tips on keeping those teeth somewhat pearly white. Remember, most human toothpaste is toxic to dogs. There is a strong connection between dental health and heart disease: all that plaque, tartar and gum infection can enter the bloodstream causing heart disease. And, dental care is one of the most commonly overlooked areas of canine health, because... well, it's a pain in the butt to brush your dog's teeth! 
5. Regular Vet visits: Just like all us humans should go to the doctor regularly for system maintenance, so should dogs. 95% of heart disease is acquired, but some of it is genetic. There are some breeds that are more likely to get heart disease. Luckily, there is a relatively new blood test: Cardiac ProBNP test. This test measures the peptide hormone which is released when the heart is pushed beyond capacity. This test could be a valuable tool in our toolbox in identifying and maintaining heart disease. If you have concerns about heart disease in your canine, it is always best to be upfront with your vet and to discuss treatments, supplements and diet changes before administering anything. 

With all that said, here is a nifty graphic of signs of heart disease:

And, last but not least, here is further links to promote your own self-knowledge:

• Promoting Cardiovascular Health in Dogs, Whole Dog Journal: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/8_2/features/Canine-Cardiovascular-Health_15693-1.html 
• 8 Ways to Keep Your Dog's Heart Healthy, i Heart Dogs: https://iheartdogs.com/8-ways-to-keep-your-dogs-heart-healthy/

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Canine Distemper and Rabies

 What is distemper? What is rabies? Is there a difference or are they the same thing?

Here I have broken it down for you in Layman's terms:

Please note: I did not put ALL the symptoms for rabies on my list. There are two different phases of rabies: Furious and Paralytic. The names pretty much describe the symptoms, both result in death.
PRE-EXPOSURE VACCINATION is the only thing that will protect your dog from rabies and distemper. If you think you (or your dog) have been bitten by a rabid animal, wash the wound with soap and water for about 15 minutes immediately. The Rabies virus is very fragile and will most likely be killed by the soap and water before it travels through your body to the brain. BUT, you still need to call your local doctor/ veterinarian for post-bite treatment and protocol.  You don't want to mess around and take chances. There is a Post-bite vaccination for humans, but not for domestic animals. If your dog is not vaccinated, he/she will have to be placed in quarantine for approx. 6 months and normal vaccination protocol will be administered. If your dog shows signs for rabies, euthanization will take place. A diagnostic test for rabies involves taking tissue samples of the brain from at least two locations and requires the animal to be euthanized. Distemper cannot be transmitted to humans. There are two types of distemper: Feline and Canine. Canine distemper cannot be passed to felines and vice versa. Rabies on the other hand, can be passed to any animal including humans.   

Reference:

World Health Organization: http://www.who.int/mediacentre/factsheets/fs099/en/

Pet Education.com, Rabies in Dogs: Symptoms, diagnosis, treatment and vaccination: http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2102&aid=347

Pet Poison Helpline, Distemper and Rabies: http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/uncategorized/distemper-and-rabies/

Monkeysee.com, YouTube video series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBn385Mun6A

Remedy's Health Communities, Rabies: Signs and Symptoms: http://www.healthcommunities.com/rabies/symptoms.shtml 

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Caring for Client Animals with Potential Exposure: http://www.cdc.gov/rabies/specific_groups/veterinarians/potential_exposure.html

Six Ways To Reduce Holiday Stress In Your Canine

 The Holidays are right around the corner: Holiday shopping, meal planning, parties, guests, you name it. It can be a stressful time of year, especially for our furry family members. They don't know about holidays or what the big excitement is about, all they know is that energy is up and their human companions are stressed out. This in turn, causes them to be frantic and stressed out as well. Here are signs of stress in your animal companion:

• Loss of appetite
• Lack of energy and interest in things they used to love
• Lip licking and yawning
• Boisterous behavior  or excessive whining
• Hiding and cowering when you call to them
• Chewing on furniture and things they are not supposed to chew on when they haven't done that in ages.
• Velcro dog-- basically following you around EVERYWHERE and being right under your feet all the time.
• They seemed to have forgotten they are potty trained. 

These behaviors could also be an underlying health problem. It's a good idea to take your dog to the vet, just to rule out something physical.  Once you have ruled out something biological, here is what you can do to help ease the tension in your dog:

1. Stick to your routine: Routine is very important to canines. It brings comfort. Make sure you are feeding your furry loved one at the same time(s) you would each day and walk/play with them at your normal times. 
2. Physical Exercise: It's easy to cut corners on physical exercise when things are coming at you from all directions. But physical exercise is not only good for you, it's good for Fido. Setting aside a regular time everyday to exercise will help reduce stress in both of you and will be good for bonding/ strengthening trust in your relationship. Plus, your dog will be less likely to engage in destructive behavior.
3. Mental Exercise: Giving your dog mental exercises every day helps keep boredom at bay. A bored dog = a dog more likely to get into trouble! You can challenge your dog with enrichment puzzles or brush up on some training behaviors. All of this will help reduce stress and keep your dog happy.
4. Enlist Help: If you are just too busy to keep a normal routine with your pet, you may want to think about enlisting some help! You can hire someone or recruit a family member to take over walking and feeding the dog at the normal time. OR you can opt for your dog to come play at a doggy daycare. Personally, we think Bark City Doggy Daycare is the best. 😉
5. Manage Your Own Stress: Often your dog will figure out your stressed before you have figured it out. If your dog is a walking around mental health case, chances are you are too. Dog's don't know why you are stressed, they can sense you radiating that energy and it makes them nervous! Maybe it's time to sit down and evaluate the stress in your own life and find ways to calm down and BREATHE.
6. Quiet Sanctuary: If you are having a party or lots of guests, set aside a quiet room away from all the chaos for your dog. Put the kennel (aka personal sleeping den) in that room with their favorite toys, water, ect. This is a place just for them. People are not allowed.

The Holidays are stressful for humans and furry family members. Taking steps and precautions to minimize stress is a must.We can't avoid all the hustle and bustle, but at least we can try to be a lion tamer. Happy Holidays everyone! 

4 Halloween Treats You Can Make For Your Dog

The holidays are starting folks, and it starts with Halloween. Halloween is one of my favorite holidays. Whether you are trick-or-treating this year or just staying home, you can still celebrate! I have already bought candy for all the two-legged children walking the neighborhood. Candy is delicious, but it is not the best for our health. It's definitely not healthy for your dog. Below, I have gathered a few recipes for your beloved canine in lieu of store bought candy. But before you get cooking, please read these safety tips for animals on Halloween:

1. Keep human candy away from pets. A lot of the candy given to humans can be toxic to your pet, only give your furry family member treats that are made for dogs.
2. Don't keep lit pumpkins around your pets unsupervised.
3. Keep wires and electrical cords out of reach from chewing mouths.
4. Don't dress your pet up in a costume unless they are comfortable being in a costume.
5. Don't leave your dog out in the yard on Halloween. It can be a scary night even for canines!
6. Keep your cat indoors to keep them safe from pranks and cruelty-related incidents.
7. Letting your dog chew on pumpkins and corn stalks may cause GI upset. 

In addition, you can read here for the ultimate holiday tips for keeping your dog stress-free. For me, October marks the start of minimizing the stress and chaos of all holidays. Let's face it, October through December is pretty much of frenzied blur of one holiday after another and your canine's mental health gets lost in all of it. It's best to start preparing now.

And now for the recipes! The links are below the beautiful images in the captions section. Enjoy!

Pumpkin Biscuits by Bark City!

These are for humans and dogs! Hotdog mummies by Frugal Coupon Living.

Mummy bones pumpkin peanut butter dog treats by The Cottage Market.

Pumpkin and Cheese Dog Treats by Kol's Notes.

Happy Halloween!🎃

Disaster Preparedness for Pet Owners

Emergencies are a type of event that you don't know you are going to have until you are having it. Some emergencies require a brief absence from your home, other emergencies require permanent evacuation. Your four-legged companion is part of your family. If you have family evacuation plans in place for your two-legged family members, shouldn't you also have them for your four-legged?

It's always a good idea to have plans in place well before you actually have an emergency. Here are a few things you should think about while you a planning out your emergency protocol:

• Rescue Alert Sticker: These are those little stickers on your front door that tell emergency workers how many pets you have, what they look like, their names and your veterinarian's phone number. You can get a FREE sticker here. 
• Evacuation Plan: If you are not safe in your house, your pets aren't either! Please make sure you don't just leave them behind to fend for themselves. Develop a plan that also includes a way for your pets to evacuate.
• Designated Caregiver: In the event that something happens to you, there should be a designated caregiver for your pet. This should be someone you trust that knows precisely the medical needs and diet of your pet. They should also know how to take care of the specific breed of your dog and temperament. Talk to this person about the logistics of what needs to be done way before there is an emergency. You many want to print out instructions to give to them for future reference. If there is an emergency, you will not have time to be explaining Fido's daily care. This person should have a key to your house in case something happens and you cannot be at your house to give your dog to them. 
• Safe Haven: In addition to the evacuation plan, you need a place for your pets to stay while you are evacuated. Ideas: Friends or relatives, a boarding kennel, ask your local animal shelter if they have emergency shelter or foster care options and have a list of local hotels that accept pets. Again, have these places written down with contact numbers well ahead of an actual emergency. 
• First Aid Kit: Click here to get the long list of things to include in your first aid kit! Have two First Aid kits prepared. One for home and one for the car.
• Geographical Considerations: Think about the area in which you live and what kinds of things happen: Earthquakes? Tornadoes? Flooding? Then ask yourself the question: Do you have a safe place for your dog to go in the event of these natural disasters. Areas include: basements, laundry rooms, high shelving or roof areas for floods. In addition, if there is a long period of time in which you will have no water, do you have water stored for you and Fido? Do you have food for all-legged family members?

We never like to think about the "what ifs", but we also need to be well prepared just in case. It's a good idea to plan out these things in the present rather than just saying, "Oh, I'll do it next week". Because, we all know how that goes!  Having a plan in place greatly reduces the stress in the time of an actually emergency.

Degenerative Joint Disease in Canines

Degenerative Joint Disease (DJD) is also known as Osteoarthritis. It is the progressive and permanent long-term deterioration of the cartilage surrounding the joints.  DJD is the #1 cause of chronic pain affecting one in five adult dogs.

 

For more information on DJD, please see these links:

• Canine Arthritis Treatment, The Whole Dog Journal, http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/10_3/features/Canine-Arthritis_15910-1.html 
• Vet Advice: Relieving Your Dog's Arthritis, The Bark, http://thebark.com/content/vet-advice-relieving-your-dogs-arthritis
• 10 Ways to Help an Arthritic Dog, Vet Street, http://www.vetstreet.com/care/10-ways-to-help-an-arthritic-dog  
• How to Treat Arthritis in Dogs: Glucosamine, Chondroitin Sulfate, Steroids and NSAIDS, PetMD, http://www.petmd.com/dog/general-health/evr_dg_remedies_for_arthritis_in_dogs#

How to Tell If Your Dog is Anxious

Dogs do not speak human. I have written about anthropomorphizing your pet and as I said in that blog post, there are dangers in assuming you know what your pet is feeling. BUT, dogs do feel pain, sadness, happiness and even fear. Fear is the basis of anxiety whether it is a warranted fear or not, it elicits humans and dogs into the instinctual drive of either freezing, fighting or flight. Causes of anxiety in dogs can vary, it can be from an illness, aging, a terrible experience or even being unsocialized as a puppy. Regardless of the cause, it is up to us pet parents to recognize our dog's language on when it is frightened:

Mild Cues That Often Go Unnoticed

• Hiding or seeking solitude
• Seeking comfort from favorite guardian. Ex: Jumping up into a lap or leaning against legs.
• Shaking or panting. Keep in mind that normal panting happens when a dog is hot or has just exercised. If your dog is excessively panting for no reason, they are probably anxious.
• Excessive licking or chewing. This one you need to rule out allergies before jumping right into anxiety.

More Blatant Cues That Often Mean Your Dog is Having a Panic Attack

• Excessive barking and howling.
• Aggression towards another pet, you or someone else (that's the fight instinct triggering).
• Trying to escape
• Excessive pacing 
• Excretion in inappropriate places when potty trained
• Destruction that is not related to being a puppy or juvenile dog

If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, the first and foremost thing is to go to your veterinarian to rule out a health issue. If it is indeed anxiety, there are many things you can do. After ruling out health issues, you need to identify what is causing the anxiety. Once you have the trigger identified, you can start a desensitization program with controlled exposure and giving rewards for positive behavior. This kind of program is best developed and implemented with a dog behaviorist expert. If done improperly, you could risk your dog's anxiety becoming worse. Veterinarians can also recommend medication or supplements to help with the anxiety. Most importantly, do not leave your dog's anxiety untreated. A dog's anxiety can escalate if left untreated. Your dog can end up in a dangerous situation or cause itself harm. In addition, do not scold or praise your dog when they are having a panic attack. You must remain calm and stable even when your furry companion is not. 

Toy Aggression

In a past post, I wrote about how to deal with food aggression. Today, I will talk about TOY aggression. Both are types of resource guarding in which your dog is exhibiting signs of aggression towards humans or other pets that approach your dog when it's in possession of something highly desirable. At first, this can seem somewhat tame and a little bit annoying, but if not dealt with, it can lead to a dangerous situation for all humans and pets involved.

Signs That Your Dog May be Resource Guarding:
When you (or another pet) approaches your dog when in possession of a prized object, do they:

• Refuse to give it up when asked?
• Snap?
• Hoard all toys and treats sometimes hiding them?
• Growl?
• Exhibit jealous behavior like butting another dog out of the way when you are petting the other dog (Congratulations! You are the prized object!)?

If you answered "Yes" to any of these, your dog is exhibiting signs of resource guarding. At first, some of these may seem cute (jealous behavior) or just downright annoying, but if you don't deal with them as a serious issue, you will have a serious issue on your hands. It can escalate very quickly. 

Reasons Dogs Resource Guard:

• Resource guarding is a natural instinct for dogs when they need to express anxiety or fear over a perceived threat. Do you have multiple dogs in the house? Is there anxiety and stress within the "pack"? Is one dog constantly "bullying" another dog? These are all things you need to observe within your household. It may also have to do with two-legged family members and not just other animals. Assess the environment. 
• Medical Condition
• Poor socialization as a puppy
• Inbreeding
• Genetics-- resource guarding can be a normal behavior for specific breeds
• Pack order behavior-- Again, this plays in to assessing your environment and the stress within your "pack" (human or animals). You should be the "pack leader" in your household and it's your job to maintain a calm, stress-free pack. Even though dogs do not speak human, they do pick up on our emotions. If you are feeling angry, stressed or depressed, your dog will pick up on this. They may not know the "Why" for these feelings, but they know something is not right.

Ok, so now that we have all of this out of the way and may have identified the problem, what do we do? There are specific things your can do specifically for food aggression. You can read about that here. But, today we are talking about TOY aggression.

1. First and foremost-- YOU ARE THE BOSS. That does not mean you become the pack bully. That means you are the one in control in a calm, assertive manner. Before you give your dog anything, whether it be food or a toy, have them work for it. This involves placing said object on the floor and standing over it. Have Fido either, sit and stay, lay, roll over, shake whatever you choose as long as they are not running towards the object and trying to grab it (or gobble it!) as fast as they can.
2. Teach your dog how to "drop it" and "leave it". Training a dog these manners are a must. Someday, they could potentially save your dog's life. 
3. Prevent access to prized object that your dog constantly hoards and causes aggression. Just don't bring it home. Or if you do, your dog should only have this object when by themselves in a calm quiet place like their kennel. Honestly, this tip really doesn't solve the problem. It just kind of masks the problem and makes your life easier for the time being.
4. If you are in the moment of your dog hoarding something, cause a diversion in order to get the dog away from the object. This can be something like ringing the doorbell, a ride in the car, or going for a walk. You could also give them a really enticing treat. If you do go the treat route, make sure you slowly lure the dog away from the prized object a good 15-20 feet before giving the treat. Do not give it to them right by the object! 

All in all, always remember that children should never be involved with "helping" a dog that is aggressively hoarding. If it gets to the point in which your dog is growling, snarling, snapping, lunging and biting, you need to get a professional dog behaviorist to help. 

Gland Health in Canines

 Let's talk about anal gland health. A dog's anal glands aren't actually glands. They are sacs, positioned on each side of the anus, that contain oil & sweat glands. There is also small receptacles that produce a fluid with a strong odor that is unique to each dog and helps dogs identify each other and mark their territory.  Normally, most dogs involuntarily express their glands when they poop or are highly stressed, but there is a population of dogs that need their glands manually expressed by a groomer or a veterinarian. For these dogs, the liquid is not the right consistency and creates a blockage that can become infected.

Symptoms that your dog may need manual expression: 

• Dragging their butt on the ground
• Licking or biting their butt
• Sitting uncomfortably
• Having a different standing or sitting position
• Tail chasing

Underlying Causes That May Cause Blockage:

• Chronic skin dermatitis
• Obesity
• Insufficient dietary fiber
• Chronic soft stool
• Food and/ or environmental allergies
• Genetics
  

A dog's diet can play a big role in healthy anal glands. A dog's food should contain the right amount of fiber to promote a good push on the anus. This helps express the glands. A lot of commercial dog diets do not have enough fiber, but at the same time, sometimes raw food diets are too soft. It is important to work with your veterinarian to assess your dog's dietary needs. If your dog has chronic anal gland issues, your veterinarian may prescribe supplements for gland health or recommend anal gland removal.

Dogs: Bringing A New Baby Home

 

When you bring a new baby home, everything changes. There will be new smells, new routines and a new human being! This can be incredibly overwhelming for our canine family members. Especially, if they were never introduced to babies or small children as a puppy. Dogs, like humans, need time to adjust to the changes, but there are things you can do to help your furry family member transition:

1. Provide your dog the space-- mentally & physically-- to adjust to the new baby: The crate is your dog's best friend. Remember, that dogs are naturally den dwellers. The crate should be your dog's sanctuary & should never be used for punishment. Additionally, when your children are older-- crawling age and up--there should be a non-negotiable rule: Absolutely no (human) children inside the crate. A crate is a place for the dog to escape & find serenity in all the chaos of family life. 

2. Before The Baby Arrives-- Train, Train, Train: Teach and/or review basic commands before the baby arrives-- 

"Go To (insert location)"

"Away"

"On/Off"

"Up/ Down" (furniture or stairs)

"Stay"

"Leave it"

"Drop"

 

All of these are essential for your dog's safety as well as your own and the baby's.

 

3. Control Your Pheromones (to your best ability): Having a new baby coming into the house is a stressful and exciting event. But let's remember, that your dog doesn't necessarily know what is going on. He/she can SMELL your pheromones that say "stress" & "excitement". In turn, this will communicate to your dog that they should be stressed and excited. If you are nervous when your dog is around the baby, your dog will be nervous around the baby. 

 

4. Get Advice from dog experts: A "Dog Expert" means just that.... A dog expert. Yes, most everyone that owns a dog will think they are an expert, but seek out information from a dog behaviorist or trainer. Getting advice from your neighbor, best friend, aunt.... the person at the grocery store, will only add to the confusion of what to do and not to do.  

5. Reward Your Dog for Positive Behavior around the Baby: When your dog behaves without fear or concern around the baby--> click & reward. On the flips side, never try to correct your dog while they are fearful and anxious when they are near the baby. Instead, calmly & firmly eject the dog from the area. 

6. Before the Baby-- Introduce The Dog to All Things Baby: Everything that has to do with the baby should be introduced to your dog prior to the arrival-- new gear, new routines, new smells, etc... Encourage calm & positive associations and minimize any feelings of disruptions, deprivation or agitation. Start to take your dog on walks with the stroller. If you know that you will be spending less time with your dog when the baby arrives, try to start decreasing your attention beforehand and enlist others to help. Invest in some amazing interactive toys for your dog as well. In addition, if you are worried the baby's crying will be distressing, start playing a recording of a baby crying on a low volume. Gradually increase the volume over time until it reaches the natural cry level. 

7. THE INTRODUCTION: The day has come! You are bringing the baby home. Yes, it does help to bring something home that smells like the baby prior to the baby arriving. I used the hospital cap my baby wore just after being born & had my husband bring it to the dog to smell prior to my (and the baby's arrival). Remember, that your dog has missed you and wants to see YOU. It helps if you can enter the house without the baby first, so the dog can get all it's wiggles and jumps out. Enlist someone to take the dog for a nice long walk prior to your arrival, so the dog is tired. Once all the wiggles and jumps are done & it's time for introductions, call the dog into the baby's space instead of bring the baby into the dog's space. Maintain boundaries and let your dog respectfully sniff. The dog should be included, but not in or on top of personal space. DO NOT force the meet. If your dog is acting fearful and/or wants nothing to do with the baby, respect your dog's space. Many dogs, just like humans, need time to adjust. 

 

8. Always supervise the dog and baby together. This is also the hard rule for when your baby is no longer a baby. For more information on children and dogs, click here. 

Dog Park Etiquette

Dog Parks can definitely be a fun place to take your dog for exercise and socialization. But, there is also a certain etiquette that must be followed to ensure you are not "That One Dog Owner" that all the other dog owners are whispering about. Etiquette is also to keep all dogs safe. Here is a list of  "Do's and Don'ts" that will make your trip to the dog park successful and fun.

• Pick up after your dog! Usually dog parks provide baggies, but sometimes you may need to bring your own. If you are unfamiliar with a new dog park, come prepared!
• Exercise your dog before going to the park. I know, this sounds weird and you are probably asking yourself, "Isn't the purpose of the dog park to exercise your dog?" A dog park is a place to bond with your dog. If you bring Fido to the park with pent up energy, you are just asking for a doggy meltdown. An overly excited dog + a million other dogs and wide open areas= OVER STIMULATION.
• A dog park is NOT a place to train your dog. Your dog should be trained beforehand. The reason: In case all mayhem breaks loose, you will have control of your dog. 
• Don't let your dog steal other dog's toys! It's OK if they are playing TOGETHER. But, stealing another dog's toy is an aggressive behavior that could result in a dog fight. 
• Take any pronged collars off before entering the dog park. Playing dogs can break teeth or get injured on these types of collars.
• Don't keep your dog's harness or leash on in the off-leash zone. This will just make your dog feel vulnerable and trapped when all the other dogs are zooming around. 
• Retractable leads are a HORRIBLE idea. These things are notorious for getting tangled around people and things. Not to mention, it gives your dog a sense of "freedom" that ends up hurting. How would you feel if you were running and ended up clothes lining yourself? OUCH. 
• Please don't bring children to the dog park or let your dog jump on people.
• Make sure your dog is over 12 weeks old and vaccinated.
• Do not bring a female dog in heat or pregnant to the park.
• Mixing small dogs with big dogs can be a bad idea. Some big dogs may view a smaller as prey. If you are an owner of a small dog and you encounter this problem, picking up your dog could cause an escalation. It mimics the "prey" being up a tree. 
• Don't let your dog be a bully! This includes those playful pups that keep trying and trying to play with a dog that doesn't want to play, mounting other dogs, overly sniffing another dog and running up to a dog right when they enter the park. This is all rude behavior in a dog's world.
• Take along water, not treats or food. Especially if your dog has resource guarding problems. If these guarding problems extend to you being considered a resource, the dog park may not be a place you can take your dog.
• Don't have the mind set that dogs will "work it out".  Resolve the problem before it gets out of hand.
• Do not be critical of another dog to it's owner! Handle your own dog and be responsible for your own dog's behavior. If your dog is encountering a rude dog, politely remove your dog from the situation without insulting the other owner. 
• If your dog is arthritic and old, please do not take him/her to the park. This will only make them feel vulnerable. It may also cause a dog fight. 
• If your dog seems scared, leave the dog park. Don't assume they will get over it. It could get worse. 

With all this in mind, your dog should return home from the park happy, healthy and TIRED.

10 Signs Your Dog is Stressed

Stress... Ughh. We all get stressed. As humans, we know that familiar feeling of strain or pressure that slowly creeps up on us. And, we have figured out ways to reduce our own stress (hopefully!). Prolonged stress can wreak havoc on our health and well -being. Our canine companions can also feel stress. Just like us, they need ways to reduce their stress or the body will respond through illness and disease. Unfortunately, we humans don't speak dog and dogs don't speak human. It's up the the canine owner to recognize the signs your dog is exhibiting through "dog language" that they are stressed.

To recognize the signs of stress in your dog, you must first know your dog's baseline behavior and body posture. Often, stress cues in your dog are very subtle and can mimic normal behaviors. It's up to you as the human to know your dog's normal communication behaviors and then differentiate when something is off a bit:

1. Pacing and Shaking: Dog's will "shake it off" when they are stressed. It looks a lot like shaking off water. An example of this is when you take your dog to the veterinarian and they shake immediately after getting off of the exam table. Shivering is also another cue, but can also be from fear. As for pacing, it's pretty explanatory: you dog will pace around an area. Usually it will be in a predicted path.... over and over again. 
2. Whining and Barking: With this one, you need to know your dog's baseline barking level. It will be out of the ordinary and you will need to pay attention to body language to know if it is an alert bark (like someone is coming up the walkway) or a bark/ whine of stress. 
3. Yawning, drooling and licking: Dogs will yawn when tired or bored, but a stressed out yawn will be more intense and prolonged. It may also be accompanied by a whine. Dogs will also lick excessively when stressed or drool.
4. Changes is eyes and ears: When a dog's ears are pinned against the head, it's usually a good indicator that they are stressed. Their eyes may blink rapidly and/or be wide open with the sclera (whites of the eyes) showing. 
5. Panting: Dogs pant when excited, hot or stressed out. It's up to you to decipher the environment to know which one. 
6. Changes is bodily functions: Some dogs immediately pee when meeting another dog to mark their territory or to relieve the stress/ excitement of meeting a new dog. Under stressful situations, dogs will also refuse food or lose function of their bowels. 
7. Shedding: All dogs shed. Some dogs shed more excessively than others. If your dog is shedding "more than usual", check to see if it is something they could be stressed about and assess other behaviors they may be exhibiting. Prolonged excessive shedding could be a medical issue and needs to be checked out by a veterinarian. 
8. Changes in body posture: Unless your dog has an orthopedic problem, posture is usually evenly distributed between all four paws. A stressed out dog will shift their weight to the rear legs and cower. Their body will be rigid and tail will be tucked between the legs. 
9. Avoidance or displacement behavior: When in a stressful situation, some dogs will try to "escape" by focusing on something else. This could include: sniffing the ground, licking genitals, turning away or completely ignoring the stressful object. When this happens, do not force your dog to pay attention to whatever is stressing them out. This could make the problem worse or initiate aggression. 
10. Hiding or Escaping: When a dog is stressed, they will often find a quiet place of solitude. Please respect the solitude. As with the avoidance or displacement behavior, if you force them to be in a stressful environment, you could initiate aggression. 

As I said before, you must know your dog's baseline behavior to know what is and isn't out of the ordinary for your dog. As a dog owner, you must also check your own stress levels. Often if the owner is stressed, the dog will be stressed out as well. The owner will be communicating "stress" to the rest of the pack (aka dog) and it can become a cycle of stress.  Here are a couple of tips to help regulate your dog's stress level:

• Regulate your own stress. 
• Mental and physical exercise: A bored dog that does not get enough exercise is a recipe for A) misbehavior B) aggression and C) stress. They need that daily exercise to get rid of extra energy!
• Remove your dog from the stressor. This can include providing a quiet sanctuary in the household. If your dog is in their sanctuary, please keep all humans (including children) out. Allow your dog to be by themselves if that is what they need. 
• Do not over comfort your dog. Sometimes, well intended love and attention can make the situation worse: The owner is reinforcing the stress behavior. If you are using treats or positive reinforcement during a stressful situation, make sure your dog is "working" for the treat by making them perform a command like "sit" or "stay". 
• If your dog is consistently stressed out, visit a veterinarian to rule out any medical issues. 

With all that said, please remember that prolonged stress will break down a healthy body! Take care of yourself and your four-legged family members. 💓

Canine Yeast Dermatitis

 Yeasts are a eukaryotic, single -celled microorganisms that fall under the fungus kingdom. They are normally present on the skin and in the body-- particularly in the gut where it helps to digest food. Generally, yeast does not cause illness. Yeast Dermatitis, however, is an infection on the skin or ears when there is an abnormal overproduction. It usually occurs in the ears, paw pads or skin folds and is itchy, red and irritated. If left unchecked and without treatment in the ears, it can lead to deafness. 

Symptoms:

• Red irritated skin
• Itching & scratching
• The appearance of dark pigmented skin
• Flaky or scaly skin
• Sores on the skin
• Musty Odor
• Changes in skin texture (aka: elephant skin)
• Hair loss, bald patches
• Head tilting and shaking the ears
• Hearing loss

Common Causes:

• An under active or over active immune system
• Allergens
• Food high in sugar & carbs
• Heat & humidity
• Poor hygiene
• Trapped moisture
• Frequent bathing
• Swimming
• A trapped object in the ear, ear wax or discharge
• Various ear drops

If you suspect that your dog may have an over production of yeast, it is best to contact your veterinarian for a check-up. If it is yeast dermatitis, your vet will most likely prescribe anti fungal medication. Preventative measures include: 

• Completely drying your dog after a bath or swim.
• Cleaning your dog's ears regularly with a clean cloth or cotton ball. 
• Providing your dog with a healthy food that is high in protein.
• Regular brushing to clear away dead skin & dirt.
  

Understanding a Dog's Senses

Humans and dogs have the same senses: hearing, touch, sight and smell. But, it pretty much ends there in regards to equality. A human generally uses their senses in this order: hearing--> seeing--> smelling--> touch. Whereas a dog uses them in this order: smelling--> seeing--> hearing--> touch. In this post, I am going to break down each sense and describe the variations between a human and a dog.

The Nose:
 A dog's brain is about 1/10 the size of a human brain, BUT the part of the brain that controls smell is about 40 times larger in a dog than human. Pretty impressive, right? Depending upon the breed, A dog's sense of smell is 1,000- 10,000,000 times stronger than a human's. Dogs have about 125-300 million scent glands compared to a humans measly 5 million. Dogs can smell things that humans can't even fathom.... like emotions. We humans usually rely on our sight to tell us the subtle clues of how a person is feeling. Though, we can easily be tricked by a feigned smile or a "I'm fine". Dogs, on the other hand will smell right through that masquerade right to the emotional pheromones emitted by your body. Which is why, if your dog has been acting depressed or anxious, you should examine your own emotions and lifestyle. It could be that your dog is worried, because you are worried. Or, if your dog has suddenly started obsessively smelling a specific part of your body, you might want to go get a physical check-up from your doctor. A dog's smell is so great, it can smell subtle changes in your body chemistry that could be an illness.

Other smelling facts: A dog's wet nose is mucous that helps trap scent particles onto the nose, thus allowing a greater examination of "the smell". AND a dog is able to move both nostrils independently. This allows them to figure out the direction of "the smell". 

Eyes:
Most humans can see in color. Dogs, on the other hand, see in various shades of blue and yellow. Let's examine some colors and compare it to what a dog actually sees:

• Purple and Blue = Blue 
• Greenish blue = gray
• Red = black or dark gray
• Orange, yellow and green = yellow

Let's say you throw an orange ball upon some green grass, your dog will probably use more of his/her sense of smell to find the object than sight. To the dog, both the ball and grass are the same color---yellow. Dogs also see best at dusk or dawn and see moving objects better than humans. If your dog is staring at a television, it not only sees the picture we humans see, but it also sees the tiny flickering lights that human eyes don't detect. This does not mean that a dog's sight is superior to a humans, though. On the contrary. A normal human's eyesight is 20/20 whereas a dog's is about 20/75. Further more, a human can see close up and far away better than a dog.

Hearing:
When a dog is born, it cannot hear until it is about 21 days old. But once a dog's hearing is fully developed, they can hear 4 times the distance of a human. Dog's can also hear higher pitches. Depending upon the breed, a dog's hearing range is about 40- 60,000 Hz. Whereas a human is at about 20-20,000 Hz. This is why a dog may get upset by loud noises or the vacuum cleaner. A loud noise is REALLY LOUD to a dog and the vacuum cleaner may be giving off a super annoying high pitch noise that we humans can't detect. A dog also has about 18 muscles in their ears. This allows them to move their ears in all directions in order to detect the direction of a sound. A human has about 6 muscles, which is why we can maybe wiggle our ears at best.

Touch:
A dog's paw pads are made up of fat, connective tissue and really thick skin. This allows them to have great cushioning and insulation from cold and hot temperatures. That doesn't mean that their feet are invincible. Humans still need to pay attention to really hot pavement and icy snow to prevent blisters and cuts on a dog's paws. A dog's paws are naturally pretty rough. But, if you notice a smoothing away of the pads, you may need to examine the surface your dog walks upon. Pavement can do this to the paw pads and may need to be swapped out to a softer terrain like grass.

As you can see, humans and dogs may have the same senses: sight, hearing, smell and touch. But, they are not made equal. Which is why it is extremely important when training and understanding your dog, that you think about how your four-legged family member is perceiving the world. Humans have a tendency towards anthropomorphism --- putting human traits and emotions upon non-human animals---which often leads to behavioral problems in our canine friends.