Tuesday, August 18, 2015

Bentonite Clay For Canines

Bentonite clay is mud. But it's not your everyday run of the mill, make a mud pie sort of mud. It's a healing mud that can be eaten or used topically. There are three types of Bentonite clay depending on the dominant mineral within it, but the clay I will be talking about is food grade Calcium Bentonite Clay (aka Animin). Bentonite clay is a negatively charged, highly absorbent substance that is mainly comprised of volcanic ash. It contains around 50 trace minerals and has historically been used for centuries as a healing remedy for a variety of ailments:

Yes and more! In fact, animals in the wild will instinctually search out and eat clay to get rid of pests or if sick. They aren't all "scientific-y" like us humans but somehow they know it works and in Layman's terms, here's how: Bentonite clay is negatively charged, when ingested the clay's negative ionic charge pulls positively charged particles (such as parasites, toxins, allergens and bacteria) from the body via the bloodstream and then eliminates them through the kidneys and bowels. The clay is not absorbed into the body, so it gets eliminated as well. It should be noted though, that when feeding your pet Bentonite clay, more is not always better. It's best to stick to the daily dosages and always provide water. Water is the key. If your pet is not drinking enough water, Bentonite clay can cause constipation or blockage.

Or just read the back of your package. This is just a general guideline I found on the internet. Links will be provided below.

If feeding Fido mud makes you a little nervous, do not fret! Bentonite clay can also be applied topically as a paste for rashes and stings. You can also soak your beloved four-legged in a luxury bath right at home. This will also help draw out toxins and reduce inflammation in the body.

As always, I need to provide a word of caution:

And Remember!! Food Grade Calcium Bentonite Clay!! Not Sodium Bentonite Clay or Magnesium Bentonite Clay or Potassium Bentonite Clay. You want Food Grade Calcium Bentonite Clay! (Also know as Animin)

For further research, here are addition links (amongst a million) I have found on the internet:

And as always, before you give your dog a new supplement, please consult a medical professional and do your own research to find out if it is the right path for your four-legged family member. 

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Diatomaceous Earth for Flea Control

Fleas- They are nuiances. If you have pets, you have to deal with them. There are many products on the market. Some are chemical and some are natural. A lot of us use a chemical treatment, such as Frontline. But, there are a lot of animals and people out there that are allergic to chemical treatments. The natural treatments composed of essential oils can sometimes have adverse effects on animals (or humans) as well. Whether chemical or natural, you need to research your product and decide for yourself what is the best option for your household. I also like to recommend that pet owners "know their enemy", which means you need to do a little research on the life cycle of a flea. Some products help eliminate all stages of a flea from larvae to adult and some just eliminate the adult stage.

The product I am showing you today, is a natural, non-toxic substance that eliminates ADULT fleas (and other insects as well): Diatomaceous Earth. Diatomaceous Earth is a fine powdery substance that has the consistency of pumice powder. It is made out of fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae. It is used in about a million things: toothpastes, facial scrubs, metal polishes, filtration for swimming pools, filtering food products and the list goes on and on. In fact, we eat diatomaceous earth almost everyday. Farmers throw it in with grain stores to keep insects from eating the grain. Gardeners use it for a variety of pests and plant growth problems. Some people even mix it with water and drink it to detox. What must be emphasized is that FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH IS THE ONLY FORM OF D.E. YOU SHOULD USE ON PETS OR YOURSELF. If it does not say food grade, most likely it is the form of D.E. that is used in pool filtration systems or for some other industrial use and it is very harmful if inhaled or ingested. With that said, when I talk about Diatomaceous Earth in this post, I am talking about food grade quality.

Food grade Diatomaceous Earth is an effective way to kill adult fleas, but you must be vigilant. The algae it is composed of has sharp edges (like pumice). It works by cutting into an insect's exoskeleton causing it to become dehydrated and dry up. It kills an insect on the physical level, not chemically. For application on your pet, it can be sprinkled on and worked into the fur (I usually use a brush). It can also be sprinkled onto carpets, bedding or even outside. BUT, it takes time to work. You must leave it on for a few hours to overnight. Then you can vacuum, wash, bath, ect... It also loses it's effectiveness if it becomes wet. Remember, that it only kills adult fleas. Which is why you must be vigilant. Adult fleas lay eggs. D.E. does not kill the eggs or larvae. Which means, frequent application of D.E. is needed to get rid of the fleas completely. If applied too much, it can also dry out your pet's skin and cause irritation. If you are thinking about using D.E., I would recommend researching the frequency of application for your specific pet. It really varies depending upon how extreme your flea problem is and the length/ thickness of your pet's fur. If you plan on sprinkling large quantities on your carpet, I also recommend wearing a dust mask. Like any sort of powder, it can cause eye or lung irritation if too much is inhaled.

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Treating Burns on Dogs

It happens to the best of us, even your four-legged companion-- BURNS. They hurt and are a nuisance. Before you treat a burn, you should know what kind of burn you are treating and how to deal with it. There are three types of burns: heat induced (sunburn, hot liquid, oven, ect...), chemical burns and electrical. There is also three different types of severity in burns: first, second and third-degree. First-degree burns are superficial. They only affect the topmost layer of the skin. The skin will look red, like a sunburn. There will be no blisters. Second-degree burns produce blisters and the skin may look "wet". Third-degree burns involve complete destruction of the skin layers. Areas may look black and charred.

The treatments I have outlined below are for first-degree burns. Dogs with second and third-degree burns should always go to the vet. Infection can sneak up quickly and proper treatment should be administered right away. With all types of burns, you should always monitor your companion making sure he/she has not gone into shock.

If your canine has a second or third-degree burn, gently wrap the area with a bandage. Do not use a bandage with loose fibers! These fibers could imbed into the burn and cause more problems. After the burn has been wrapped, seek medical attention. Ointments and creams should not be used on any type of burn (Especially, second or third) unless directed by a veterinarian. It doesn't really help the healing process and could cause more problems than worth.