Seven Alternatives To Rawhide Chews

   

    

The above video, by Rodney Habib of Planet Paws, has been circulating around Facebook for quite a while. I am sure most of us have watched it. I also am guestimatting that most of us have also given our dogs rawhide chews. I know I have! Until one of my dogs inhaled a huge chunk of it and then hacked it up hours later. It made me realize that a rawhide is like playing Russian Roulette with your dog. It's only a matter of time until that twisted hunk of hide becomes an obstruction in your furry friend's stomach. And let's face it, watching the above video and actually seeing how a rawhide is made is somewhat cringeworthy. GROSS.

Dogs need to chew on things. It not only cleans their teeth and is a natural way to strengthen their jaws, but it also combats boredom and relieves stress and anxiety. For puppies it also alleviates the pain that comes along with teething. Today, I have made a list of seven alternatives to a rawhide chew. I think some of them you will find somewhat surprising!

1. (I am inserting a shamless advertisement plug in here.) KONGS We love kongs here at Bark City and we offer frozen kongs to our doggy clients! Kongs can be stuffed with hunks of meat, peanut butter, favorite treats, the list goes on and on. At Bark City, sometimes we stuff them with a mixture of cottage cheese, green beans and a protein, and sometimes it's a yogurt mixture... basically, whatever suits our fancy and is seasonal.
2. Frozen Fruit and Veggies: Yep, you can give your dogs frozen apples, sweet potatoes, bananas and or carrots. Don't bother with chopping them up. Just toss the whole fruit (or veggie) in the freezer. This is a great option for summer months to keep your dog cool.
3. Dehydrated Yams You can make these yourself if you'd like. There are a bunch of recipes out there on the world wide web. Basically, you slice up a yam and dehydrate it (or cook it on a really low temperature in your oven). There are also a lot of companies out there that make them for your convenience. 
4. Deer antlers Deer antlers are a great alternative and last forever. They are good for aggressive chewers if you choose the right size for your dog and still monitor your aggressive chewer. Basically, you should always monitor your dog while they are gnawing away at something. 
5. Himalayan Dog Chews What the heck are these? Basically, a Himalayan Dog Chew is a hardened hunk of cheese. These chews were born from an ancient recipe for a snack chewed by the people of the Himalayas. It is traditionally made from yak and/or cows milk. Once your dog has officially chewed it down to a 1" chunk, you can microwave it into a puffed up treat to give back to Fido! 
6. Fish Skin Bones The name of this treat is kind of misleading if read wrong. No, you are not giving your dog fish bones. What you are giving your dog is something that looks similar to a rawhide bone, but is instead made of fish skin! We all know how good fish oil is for our precious pets! ..also...p.s... Honest Kitchen makes some dried fish skin sticks. They are called "Beam Talls".
7. Raw knuckle bones Basically, you just go to your local butcher and ask them for dog bones. These should not be cooked, because that is what causes bones to splinter off and cause choking. These bones should be raw, hefty and will have a bit of flesh left on it. Raw butcher bones provide your dog with minerals, proteins, enzymes, and essential fatty acids. Your dog will love you forever.

Finding something your four-legged friend can chew on that isn't your shoes, furniture or door frame is a must for keeping mental health (and their teeth and jaws healthy!), but please don't give your dog a rawhide. Instead opt for one of these alternatives. If more people start turning away the rawhide, eventually companies are going to have to follow suit and make better alternatives. Plus, really...rawhides are gross.

How to choose a Pet Boarding Facility

We would all love to bring our four-legged friend with us on vacations, but sometimes it is not feasible. When that happens, you have to find someone to take care of your dog. There are many available options. It's up to you to find the right choice for your specific dog. All dogs are different and what will work for one, may not work for another.

Of course, we would LOVE for all dogs to come to Bark City!! (We think we are the BEST!!! Haha.) BUT, we also recommend you do your homework and decide for yourself. That is why I am going to post what you should look for in a boarding facility, what are big red flags and what questions you should ask when shopping around.

What Should I Look For In a Kennel?

• SUPERVISION-- This is an important one. Whether or not the facility is partially kennel free or totally kennel free. When you have a bunch of dogs together, things can escalate pretty quickly. Dogs, like people, can get over-stimulated, tired and CRABBY. To minimize the chances of injury due to crabby dogs fighting, daycares should offer plenty of opportunities for dogs to rest. For more information on why it's important for dogs to rest click here.
• Animals should look content and stress-free.
• Proper bedding and water.
• SANITATION-- Living and play areas should look and smell clean. They should also be free of waste and urine to prevent diseases. Please look around the daycare and pay close attention to how their turf is laid down. Turf needs to be laid down correctly with proper drainage and shoveled in the winter. To learn more about proper turf installation click here. If the daycare does not have properly laid down turf (or snow isn't shoveled), it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria which eventually leads to sick dogs.
• TOUR THE FACILITY-- All daycares should allow impromptu tours. If you ask and they act all sketchy or have a bunch of excuses on why you can't... BIG RED FLAG!
• Always ask the daycare owner how they train their staff. The staff should be friendly and know all the animals by name. They should also know all details involving each dog's specific care and are TRAINED IN LARGE GROUP PLAY SETTINGS. Training and staff education does matter!
•  Well managed dog play groups. Does the facility separate their dogs into groups such as little dogs, big dogs, elderly, ect... ??
• Dogs should not be wearing collars in the facility. This is a huge safety hazard when dogs are playing. A paw could become entangled, a jaw caught or it can become a choking hazard. Click here for a handy article on why daycares should be collar free.
• 
  Safety Issues- bent wires or jagged edges on fences, areas where dogs can crawl under something and become stuck, unsupervised time with other dogs. 
• Kennel size and cleanliness. 

 Questions to Ask Before Boarding:

• Are all dogs immunized?
• How does the facility handle a dog that suddenly has diarrhea, vomiting, won't eat, kennel cough or gets a minor injury (like a small cut or broken toenail)? 
• How does the facility handle a dog that needs medical attention? 
• Is there a vet associated with the kennel?
• Do they accommodate dogs with special needs or individual diets?
• Has there been any incidents of Canine parvovirus at the facility? This virus is EXTREMELY contagious and hardy. It can live in soil for over a year!
• Is there grooming services available?
• Is my dog able to bring his/her own bedding, favorite toys, ect...? 
• How does the facility handle a dog fight or a dog that becomes irritable and aggressive? (Dog behavior can change when the dog is away from his/her parents!!)
• Is there a quiet area free from disruption that my dog can sleep and rest? 
• If the facility is kennel-free 24-7, how is the night supervised?  (Remember that a tired dog can become a crabby dog....)
• How are dogs identified? 
• How do they keep track of dog medications?

Always remember to TRUST YOUR GUT when choosing the right facility for your dog! A boarding facility may not be right for your dog or your favorite facility is booked and you can't get your dog in, there are always other options: hire a person to stay with your dog in your home or theirs (there are professional dog-sitters out there!) or find a friend, relative or neighbor that absolutely loves animals. There are options out there!

How To Choose A Dog Breeder

Last week, I discussed the pros and cons of choosing a pure bred dog vs. a shelter dog. There are benefits and drawbacks to each choice. If you have already decided against adopting a shelter dog, and have your heart set on a pure bred, it's REALLY important to research your breeder and choose a reputable one. This will help ensure that your puppy has minimal health problems, is properly socialized and is not coming from a puppy mill. Below is a list you should go through while researching dog breeders:

• First and foremost, make sure you have chosen a dog that fits your lifestyle. Remember, each breed has it's inherent traits, but that does not mean there are not pure bred dogs that stray from that norm. Nothing is set in stone. Choosing the right breed just helps point you in the right direction.
• Do not buy a puppy from a pet store or website. Reputable Dog breeders will not sell their puppies through a pet store. Most likely, these puppies come from a puppy mill which is a large-scale commercial dog breeding facility that favors profit over well-being. 
• A reputable dog breeder will screen all potential buyers. They won't just give a puppy to the first person to fork over the cash. They will ask you questions about your home life, what you like to do, how you will raise the puppy and most likely make you sign a contract. They want to minimize the risk that this puppy will end up in the humane society.
• Ask the breeder about early socialization for the puppy. They should be socializing every puppy before re-homing. 
• Get referrals.
• A reputable dog breeder should allow you to visit multiple times. When you visit, look at the living conditions. Are the dogs in healthy living conditions that help foster physical and psychological health? Do the dogs appear to be healthy? There should be no signs of malnutrition, sores or illnesses. Are the dogs socialized? Is the interaction between the breeder and dogs positive or are the dogs showing signs of fear, ect...? Look at the dog's language! Visit the mother to see what kinds of behaviors she exhibits as well as her interaction with the breeders.
• A dog breeder should provide you with a written contract and health guarantee. They should also show you records of vet visits with health screenings for the puppies and parents along with proof of OFA and CERF certificates. 
• Breeders should explain potential genetic problems your pure bred may encounter. 
• Provide documents of the parents and grandparents. There should be no crossbreeding and certainly no inbreeding. 
• You should not be required to only see one particular veterinarian when you sign a contract. In addition, interview the veterinarians that the breeders have been using along with any other local vets. Veterinarians have a wealth of knowledge with it comes to local animal "gossip".
• Breeders should be specializing in one specific breed or just a few and there will not always be puppies available. You may have to be put on a waiting list.

In addition to all of this above, you should make sure your breeders provide the paperwork for the puppies and parents as well! Here are a couple of links that will tell you what kind of paperwork to expect:

Dog Papers and Registration, RaisingSpot.com, http://www.raisingspot.com/adopting/dog-registration-papers

AKC Facts and Stats, American Kennel Club, http://www.akc.org/press-center/facts-stats/puppy-buyer-fact-sheet/

A Puppy "With Papers" from a "Registered Breeder", Some Thoughts About Dogs, http://leemakennels.com/blog/dog-breeding/a-puppy-with-papers-from-a-registered-breeder/

Recognizing An Unethical Breeder, Pit Bull Chat, https://www.facebook.com/notes/pit-bull-chat/recognizing-an-unethical-breeder/161253470577118/  

Next week, I will be writing about how to choose a shelter dog! Stay tuned!