Caring For Your Elderly Dog

Old age is not a disease, it's a stage of life. Larger dogs will hit the "elderly stage" earlier than smaller dogs: Giant breeds-- 5 to 6 years, Medium dogs-- 7 to 8 years and Smaller dogs-- 10 to 12 years. Once your beloved dog starts to reach this age range, it's time to start adjusting their care in order to give them the longest, healthiest and happiest life possible. Here are some tips on caring for your elderly dog:

• Elderly dogs are more sensitive to extreme temperature changes because their metabolism is changing. They are less able to thermoregulate. In cold weather, if needed, provide your dog with a winter coat and do not leave them outside as long. In hot weather, again, do not leave them outside as long. Plus, make sure their is plenty of opportunities for hydration. Dehydration is at a higher risk. 
• Start to moderate exercise. As your dog starts to age, the heart and lungs will start to weaken. This will mean Fido will no longer be able to exercise as long or as hard as in earlier years. Exercise will need to be adjusted accordingly.
• Work with your veterinarian on adjusting your dog to a "senior diet". Working with a veterinarian or canine health professional is important. Unlike puppy food, there is no regulation as to what is considered a senior diet in the pet food industry. 
• Keep an eye on your dog's weight. Extra weight will wreak havoc on your dog's joints. In turn, this can exacerbate arthritic symptoms. For more information on Hip Dysplasia and arthritis, click here (hips) and here (arthritis).
• Incontinence may happen. Please do not punish, but realize that this is just part of the stage of life. But, it is also important to have this checked out by your veterinarian in order to make sure there is not an underlying medical issue like a bladder infection, ect..
• Canine Cognitive Dysfunction may also happen. You may notice that your dog isn't performing the tricks that used to be a favorite or is forgetting the daily walking route. Elderly dogs can also suffer memory loss as they get older. Here is a helpful link (click here) on how to recognize Canine Cognitive Dysfunction in your dog. 
• Saying Goodbye. I know this isn't a topic we like to think about. Letting go is HARD. But, there may come a time when your Furry Companion is just ready to cross the rainbow bridge. If you happen to notice a lack of luster, your dog is no longer playing, not enjoying life, not interacting, not interested in food or social interaction and in general nothing you or your vet can do to bring your pup back to "normal", it may be time to consider what is the overall quality of your dogs life is at this point. Sometimes, a dog may be ready to cross when the humans is not ready to let go. This prolongs the suffering on both ends. 

I hope these tips are helpful as you and your canine approach this stage of your dog's life. With care, thoughtfulness and understanding, this stage of your dog's life is rewarding and can help you and your canine bond on a deeper level (As well as teach you, the owner, A LOT of lessons about yourself. 😉) Remember: with age, comes wisdom!

Purebred vs. Shelter Adoption

The time has come where you are thinking about adopting a dog into your family. One of the big decisions is whether to adopt a shelter dog or a purebred dog. There are pro's and cons for both sides and some individuals can have very strong opinions one way or the other. I am going to lay out the basic pro's and cons for both sides in Layman's terms without veering into the opinion category.

Basically, what it all comes down to is genetics. A purebred dog will have a high chance of being predictable in behavior and physical appearances. After all, that is the whole philosophy of breeding animals. Certain dogs are "hardwired" for certain work behaviors and energy levels. If you are going to adopt a purebred, you must make sure you DO YOUR RESEARCH on that specific breed and provide a living environment that caters to their genetic tendencies. Purebred dogs also will have a higher likelihood of having health problems. The genetic breeding for physical appearances and the limited gene pool are what cause this problem. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do your research when deciding on a breeder. This will help minimize the health problems in your dog. Some breeders are not reputable and are just in it for the money.(Read here on how to choose a dog breeder) And lastly, be prepared to spend time researching your dog breed and forking over cash. Purebred dogs are a lot of money.

A shelter dog, on the other hand, is wide open when it comes to genetics. You most likely will have no clue as to what kind of breed (or most likely BREEDS) you have. This can cause a guessing game as to how to properly provide a living environment for your dog's tendencies. It will take time to figure out what Fido does and does not like. If you are adopting an older dog (as in not a puppy), you will not know the past history and have "surprise" behaviors pop up. But, adopting an older dog does have a plus-- most likely they will be house-trained! Shelter dogs are also less money upfront and most come with their shots, spay-neuter, microchip already completed. Health wise, you are working with a wider gene pool, so the likely hood of a chronic health problem is smaller than in a purebred. (Read here on how to choose a shelter dog.)

I've mentioned in this post how genetics play a strong role in behavior for dogs of both purebred and shelter. But environmental factors should not be overlooked. Environmental factors do play a role in dog behavior. A dog needs a good starting point in life for socialization. If you are adopting a purebred dog, you will most likely have more control over what kind of environmental behaviors your four-legged friend has learned. A shelter dog is more complicated because the history can be anything and everything. The shelter can provide you with some background, but most likely you will need to be prepared to be dealing with a dog that has some bad habits. Whether a purebred or shelter dog, you need to make sure you are providing a family life that promotes positive environmental behaviors for your dog. Even if your dog comes from the most perfect background, if you do not continue offering a positive environment for your canine, your dog will develop bad habits. And vice versa, a dog that comes from a deplorable past can become the perfect family dog with time and love. Environment does play a role in behavior.

With all that said, choosing to have a dog in your life is a big decision. It takes time, research, money and commitment. You should never give an animal to someone as a gift and you should only adopt an animal if you are mentally and financially prepared to take care of it for the rest of it's life. With time and love, your furry friend will soon become a family member, not just a "pet".

How to Crate Train Your Dog

 

Often, people don't crate train their dogs because they view putting their dog in a crate as a punishment. This could be because we humans view it as a cage--a jail. Or, it could be because we do use it as a punishment for our dog when they have become mischievous. But, these are all human attributes we are assigning to our dog. The fact is, dogs are naturally den animals and enjoy small enclosed places. A crate can be a place of security that calms a dog's anxiety. The key is not to accidentally train your dog into thinking of it as a negative space because you use it as "punishment" for dog behaviors you don't want to deal with or haven't trained your dog not to do.  A crate should be a place your dog is naturally inclined to want to use to relax. So, how do we do that?

1. A crate should be the right size. You will need to find a crate that not only fits your lifestyle, but fits your dog. Buy a crate that is the adult version for the specific breed of your dog. If you have a puppy, buy a divider that you can use to have the crate "grow with your dog". As the dog grows, move the divider to make more room. A crate should never be too big or too small. Too big, and you aren't giving your dog a den like feel. Too small, and it will be uncomfortable for your dog.

2. Mindset. Wait until your dog is relaxed before you put your dog into the crate. Avoid putting your dog in the crate while they are in the midst of playing. If your dog is not used to a crate, start at 10 minutes & slowly build up to more time.

3. Comfort. It's hard for us humans to believe, but some dogs actually prefer to sleep on a hard surface. You will need to figure out what your dog finds comfortable. Is it a memory foam dog bed? A pillow? Or, is it just a blanket on the bottom of the crate? If you have a wire crate, I find that putting blankets on top of it as a cover helps give the crate more of a "den" feel.

4. Treat. Give your dog a nice treat once they go into the crate. I like to use a filled Kong for my dogs. Remember, chewing is a way dogs alleviate stress!

5. Keep an eye on the Time. Remember, we are slowly building up the time our dog spends in the crate, but that doesn't mean we are building up to a time where our dog is in the crate for hours on end. Even canines need to stretch legs and go to the bathroom! You don't want your dog to start to associate being in the crate as uncomfortable. 

6. Collars off. Always take your dog's collar off when they are in the crate. If your dog's collar happens to get caught on something, you risk strangulation. 

7. Crate games. When not in use, leave the crate door open for your dog. That way they can enter whenever they feel like it. In addition, occasionally hide treats in there. Or, when playing indoor fetch, throw the ball in there.

8. Set up your dog for success. As you train your dog to love their crate, you will want to set them up for success when you leave the house. Start with small mini trips-- down to the mailbox, a quick trip through drive through coffee, etc... and see how they respond. Do they get worried and anxious? If so, you will need to address this, so your dog does not associate the crate with being worried and anxious. Gradually build up the time duration of your absence. But, remember! Not hours and hours at a time without your dog getting a bathroom break or a walk around the block to stretch their legs. 

9. Patience. Don't expect your dog to be crate trained in a couple of weeks. On average, it can take 6-months or longer for a dog to become fully crate trained. It takes a lot of dedication and patience. 

10. Human children are not allowed in the crate. If your dog is in the crate relaxing, human children are to leave your dog alone. For more rules for children around dogs visit here. 

Remember, dogs naturally are den animals. With proper positive association, a dog can come to love their crate and find it to be a place of relaxation. It also takes a lot of patience on the human end to help your dog learn to love the crate. A crate should never be used as a source of punishment.

Puppy Biting 101

You just brought home a bundle of fuzziness that slept all day, but now this furball is running around, nipping, jumping and biting. OUCH! As a human, our first reaction is to think that this puppy is naughty and going to become an aggressive dog if we don't do something....and fast! Although, yes, biting needs to be dealt with, it does not necessarily mean you have a "bad apple". It means your puppy is in fact a canine. Puppies bite for a number of reasons: They could be teething and the biting action is relieving the itchiness of their teeth coming in. They are also learning how to play. If you watch puppies at a young age play in a pack, they bite. As they get older and their litter mates teach them that biting hurts through a yelp or cry, a puppy soon learns to be gentle. Puppies will also bite to get your attention, and it works! On the flip side, a puppy may bite if they are sick, hurt or just not socialized correctly. It is extremely important to pay attention to your puppy's language to know why they are biting and proceed with the correct course of action.

The First 4 Steps

1. Proper Socialization: Before you even bring home a puppy, you should do your research to make sure your puppy is getting socialization through the breeder or shelter and is not isolated. This is a big must. Most of a puppy's learning comes from the first few months and what they learn becomes ingrained into their behavior. That's not to say that your puppy is a lost cause if he/she has not been properly socialized. It just means that you will have to work a bit harder in training with patience on your side. Once you bring puppy home, it is important to maintain that socialization by giving puppy playgroups with other puppies as well as humans that are patient and have experience with puppies. 
2. The Overstimulated Puppy: An over stimulated puppy will become Jaws on Paws. Think of what a human toddler does when tired and overstimulated-- They melt down into a temper tantrum. A puppy does the same thing, but instead they use their teeth. If you recognize that your puppy is overstimulated, please put them in their kennel in a quiet area to rest. Puppies need rest!
3. Visitors at the Door: If you have a puppy that likes to greet all visitors at the door with jumps and nips, one good way to try to ward off all the love is to place a box of toys outside the door with a little sign that says something like "Puppy in Training! Please help and give Fido a toy when you come in the door". This toy will help keep your puppy's mouth busy on the toy instead of the person. Plus, the sign will warn all upcoming visitors to remain calm upon entering the door and that, yes, you are trying.
4. Exercise! Giving your puppy proper exercise (mental and physical) in combination with adequate rest, will help puppy not have to release their energy through their teeth. 

How to Handle a Biting Puppy
 If you are playing with your puppy and he/she starts to bite, the first thing to do is STOP. If your hand is in your puppy's mouth, do not try to pull it out. Instead, give a little yelp like "OUCH!",  pause and wait for your puppy to release.  If you try to pull, your puppy will most likely think your are trying to engage in a tug-of-war game and your hand is the object. This equals a not-so-good scenario. Once your puppy has released it's bite, walk away and ignore your puppy. If your puppy continues to trail behind you biting, put he/she in the crate for a time out. Eventually, your puppy will learn that biting does not = playing. Puppies are social animals. Social exile is not something they like. 😢 Always remember to praise, praise, praise your puppy when they are playing gentle!

If you have children in the house, it is especially important to train your children. Make sure you are very strict and consistent about how your children play with puppy. Children need to recognize an over stimulated puppy and take measures to let puppy rest instead of overstimulating the puppy more. Never let your children play aggressively with a puppy and they should not be the object of "chase".... Letting puppy chase the children around the yard, nipping at their butts, ect... This game is a really good way for a child to get bit or knocked down and bit once the puppy is bigger. It's a game that can escalate really quickly and go down hill fast. If your puppy is chasing your children, tell your children to stop running and stop the game. Period.

In closing, the most important thing to remember is that a biting puppy is learning. It is up to us to make sure they are learning the right way and getting socialized with other puppies. Never yell or hit your puppy, but instead use praise and gentleness to teach a puppy the correct behavior.