The "Ins and Outs" of Raw Feeding


You've done your research and have decided to switch your dog over to a raw food diet, but feel completely overwhelmed and a little bit scared all at the same time. No fear! In this post, I will give you the general "ins and outs" of making your own raw food. Because let's face it, buying pre-made raw dog food can get super expensive! In addition, at the end of this post, I will give you some handy links for further reading to reassure you that you will not kill your dog.

First, let's talk parasites. That is probably the number one (or two) concern when switching to a raw diet. There are two things you can do to eliminate the probability of giving your dog parasites: 1. Do not feed your dog the guts. Guts are where parasites harbor. By taking the guts our of your dog's meal, you drastically reduce the probability of there being parasites in your raw food. 2. Freeze your raw meat for three days before serving. Freezing will kill any parasites that have traveled from the gut area into the muscle mass.

The next concern is bacteria. Will I make my dog sick from bacteria? The answer is maybe. But, there is also a chance bacteria will make your dog sick in commercial dog food as well. We see that almost every day with new and up-coming recalls. The chances of your dog getting sick from bacteria is slim and here's why:

"Dogs and cats are built to handle bacterial loads from food that would cause significant illness in you or me. Their bodies are well equipped to deal with heavy doses of familiar and strange bacteria because nature built them to catch, kill and immediately consume their prey.
Your dog’s or cat’s stomach is highly acidic, with a pH range of 1 to 2.5. Nothing much can survive an environment that acidic – it exists to keep him safe from potentially contaminated raw meat and other consumables.
In addition to the acid, dogs and cats also naturally produce a tremendous amount of bile. Bile is both anti-parasitic and anti-pathogenic. So if something potentially harmful isn’t entirely neutralized by stomach acid, the bile is a secondary defense. And your animal’s powerful pancreatic enzymes also help break down and digest food."  (https://animalwellnessmagazine.com/the-truth-about-raw-food

 Now that we have that out of the way, let's talk about the food:

  1. Your dog must have calcium and the best way to give it is through raw bones. Do not cook the bones, this is how they become a choking hazard because cooking causes them to become dry and brittle. Raw bones are not a choking hazard. Make sure that approximately 1/3 of your dog's diet includes bones. Egg shells are also a good source of calcium, but you must make sure they are from a farm. Commercial eggs are usually sprayed with some sort of not-so-great spray.
  2. Organs are the multi-vitamin and should be 10% - 30% of the diet. Variety is the spice of life. If you are feeding your dog just one particular organ, it should be just 10% of the food. Otherwise, you run the chances of your dog getting loose stools. If you are including a myriad of organs: liver, kidney, spleen, brain, lung, testicles, you can have the percentage up to 30%.
  3. Muscle meat is the foundation and should be 1/2 - 1/3 of the food (depending upon your organ percentage). Try to make sure the food incudes a little bit of fat, but not too much. Fat is essential for immune function and skin health. Too much fat, you will run the chances of your food being low in vitamins and you will have a chubby dog.
  4. No starches! Try to avoid grains, peas and potatoes. These are just fillers and don't really do much for your dog aside from giving them health problems. 
  5. Fruits and Veggies? You don't need to get overly concerned about fruits and veggies. If you have the meat portions right, your dog should be getting everything they need. Fruits and veggies do provide nutrients that meat does not have-- prebiotics, Chlorphyll, Lycopene, Lutein, ect... that will enhance your dog's health. But, don't over stress it. Personally, I just add the bits and ends of my produce that don't make it into my "people food".
  6. Variety is the spice of life. Try out different meats and weird parts as well. Did you know that poultry feet and beef trachea contain a good amount of chondroitin and glucosamine? By mixing and matching, you will end up being a culinary expert and keep your dog well-balanced. Which leads me to my next tip:
  7. Balance over time. Don't worry about whether or not each and every dog meal is "complete and balanced". Shoot for your dog being balanced over a weekly time frame. Again, if you provide variety, your dog's health should be complete. 
  8. Fish once a week. This way, you can skip buying the expensive fish oil that easily becomes rancid. Fish should be about 5% of your dog's diet. Good, cheap choices include: sardines, smelts, herring and/or mackerel. 
  9. Whole animal is simple and best.  With all the above said, if you really want to keep it simple, just use a whole animal (minus the guts). Example: a whole chicken, a whole rabbit or a whole fish. A whole animal contains all the things your dog needs in the correct percentage! It has organs, it has bones and it has muscle meat. All in all, mother nature really did provide the optimal nutrition for our furry friends. We humans made it complicated.  
  10. Work with a veterinarian that rejoices your raw food choice. Until you have the knack of it, don't be afraid to work with your raw-loving veterinarian to make sure your dog is maintaining optimal health. 
  11.  Feed your dog 2-3% of it's body weight a day. Adjust it according to your dog's individual metabolism and health. (example: if your dog is obese, you may want to shoot for 2%. If your dog is super high energy, 3% may be better.) To calculate: (dog's ideal weight) x .02. For puppies-- they should get 2-3% of their ideal adult weight.
That's it! Don't overthink it. But, if you really want to overthink it, here are some extra links to reassure you:





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