Potty Training Your Puppy

Whether you just adopted a puppy or an adult dog, chances are you are going to have to house train your dog to do the business in the appropriate place. For most dogs, it will take 4-6 months to a year of diligence to potty train. But, depending upon your new dog's previous living conditions and already developed habits, it could take longer or they could already be trained! If you have a straight out of the womb puppy, you will need to begin potty training at about 12-16 weeks. Whatever the scenario, you are going to need:

• consistecy
• patience
• positive reinforcement

When you first bring your new addition to the house, limit where he/she can roam. This will give you a more controlled environment and give your dog less options to use as a toilet. Then, follow these steps:

Dog language for using the bathroom:

• Whining
• Circling
• Sniffing
• Barking and Scratching at the door

 As training progresses, you can offer more freedom for your furry family member to roam around the house. But, I would advise to slowly offer more roaming space... like one room at a time... until trust is established. Remember, you need to convince your new friend, that the great outdoors is the best place to go to the bathroom! This is done through consistency, patience and positive reinforcement.

Prepping a Puppy for Grooming

 

Do you have a new puppy, or planning on getting a new puppy soon? Set them up for success by getting them used to the grooming and bath process at a young age. The most critical learning period of a dog's life is in the first 6 months. By positively introducing the process of grooming to your puppy, you will help your puppy have a nice association with brushes, combs, nail clippers and handling. At all times, this process should be done gently, with positive reward. This is a process of gentle guidance with no resistance. 

1. Handling your puppy-- In this first step, you will be helping your puppy get used to being touched in areas that a dog is naturally uncomfortable with being handled-- the face, top of the head, feet, bottom and tail. When the puppy is cuddling and sleeping next to you, start with belly rubs in a slow, gentle circular movement. If the puppy is ok with this, you can slowly start to pet other parts of the body starting with the legs in slow, downward strokes and move onto the feet. Gradually, introduce petting other parts of the body-- the ears, under the chin, the back... etc. If at anytime, the dog pulls away, respect your dog's boundaries and back off. You are either introducing too much too fast or that particular area of the dog is a sore spot. 
2. Holding your puppy-- Dogs naturally do not like being contained and not all puppies like to be held. While sitting next to the puppy, barely place each hand on the sides of the ribcage. You should be barely touching the dog. The goal is to gradually increase the number of seconds your dog will tolerate your hands on the ribcage. Always reward your dog with a special treat before they move away. If you reward them after they move away, you are teaching them to move away instead of being held! Pay special attention to your dog's language. If you notice that the dog is getting upset, back off. You may need professional help for this dog to learn handling. 
3. Restraint-- On this step, you will be teaching your dog how to be restrained. It is similar to the last step, but instead of barely placing your hands on the ribcage, you will be barely holding the puppy-- beside you or on your lap. Remember, we do not want any negative association with this process, so you will want to be patient with gentle movements to guide your puppy. The goal is to increase the amount of time your puppy will tolerate being held. You will want some tasty reward treats for this step. As you are holding your puppy, wait until your puppy relaxes their muscles and either licks the lips, yawns or sighs. Then, give your puppy the tasty treat and let go. You may be rewarding for being held for one or two seconds at first. Remember--we are building a positive association between the treat and being held. Do not give your puppy the treat AFTER you let go. Otherwise, you are rewarding the puppy for being free! If at any point, the puppy bites, cries or struggles, release the puppy immediately. If this is a continual issue, please consult a professional. 
4. Movement-- We are now going to move onto teaching the puppy that having someone move their limbs and body will not cause stress. Starting this step is best done while the dog is laying in prone position after sleeping. Similar to step one of handling your puppy, you will slowly introduce your dog to being comfortable with you moving parts of their body-- the head, tail, ears, feet, etc-- like a veterinarian examination . As you introduce moving different parts of the body, you will reward your dog after each movement. Examples of movements include: looking inside the ears, moving each nail, examining pads and toes and cupping the head with the first three fingers of your hand to move the head up and down and side to side. If you get a negative reaction of your dog pulling away, you will need to back off. If at any time during any of these steps, your dog shows aggressive behavior to any types of bonding, you will need to consult a professional 
5. Equipment-- On this last step, you will be introducing your dog to combs, brushes and nail clippers. Always check to make sure your grooming equipment is appropriate for your puppy's breed. To begin, you will simply introduce the brush to your dog. Show it to them, let them smell it and then give them a treat. Next, you will try a few short strokes on their coat and reward. Gradually, you will progress to actually brushing your dog. You will want to use this same process with the combs and nail clippers. 

As always, with training a canine, you should keep training sessions short and pleasant in order to avoid mental fatigue in your dog and a negative experience. Training sessions should also be frequent to reinforce the learning process. If you have a breed that needs to go to a professional groomer or you would just prefer to have a professional groom your dog, start having your puppy visit the professional as soon as possible in order to allow the puppy to get used to the person and the place. Professional groomers can also help train the puppy to get used to the clippers and dryers that they use. 

Hiking Trail Etiquette for Canines

In the past I have written about proper dog park etiquette, but I have yet to write about the do's and don'ts of hiking trails. If you and your dog are not properly armed with knowledge, training and equipment for hiking on a trail, bad things can happen. Before I list out the etiquette portion of this blog, I will first list out the preparations you need to make before you hit the wild.

First and Foremost-- Is your dog even capable to hike a trail?

• Age: It is highly advised to take your dog's age into consideration. Puppies should hike for less than an hour. Elderly dogs joints, health and stamina should be considered. If you are going to take an elderly dog or puppy on a hike, please check with your veterinarian first and follow their guidelines.
• Dogs with a high prey drive or are highly exciteable: It is recommended that these dogs do not take hikes without a leash and have gone through rigorous obedience training. The wilderness offers a lot of stimulus-- wild life smells and the new terrain can cause your sensitive pup to go into overdrive. Remember: a dog's senses are way more acute than a human's!
• Train, train, train: Even the best trained dogs can struggle with keeping to the rules on a trail. It is advised that you take your dog on short "training hikes" before proceeding to a long hike.
• Up to date on all vaccinations: Please make sure your dog is up to date on all shots. It is also recommended that your dog is vaccinated for Leptospirosis which is a pathogen found in wildlife urine. 
• Short-Muzzled Dogs: It is recommended that dogs with short muzzles-- bulldogs, pugs, etc...--- do not go on strenuous, long hikes. Due to the air constriction of their muzzles, these dogs just aren't made for endurance and are at high risk for heat exhaustion and exercise intolerance. 
• Are my dog's paws preppped? Before you take your dog on an epic, long hike, take them on short hikes first and gradually work up the time duration. Your dog's paws will thank you.

Before you go, do your homework:

•  Pack a First Aid Kit: Not sure what should go into a first aid kit for your dog? ---->Click here. ***Extra helpful tip: pack it with you on the hike. You don't want to be in an emergency situation on a trail and have your first aid kit in the car. 
• 6' Leash: You don't want an extra long leash that gets tangled on everything-- No zipline leashes! But, you also don't want a super short leash that makes your dog feel trapped. Even if your dog is off leash trained, you need to have a leash on hand.
• Bring water and food: Just like for yourself, your dog may need extra calories and certainly will need water! Please bring a collapsable bowl with you and don't just rely on the ol' pour water into your dog's mouth from a water bottle method-- let them drink how they are build to drink. Also, don't rely on natural waterways for your dog's thirst. These may contain pathogens that will make your dog sick.
• Be picky about your location: Choose a location that is easy on paws. Avoid rough terrain, massive drop offs, hot surfaces and sharp rocks. If the trail is epic for mountain bikes and horses, it's probably not best for dogs.  
• Care for the paws: Bring a pair of booties for your dog as well as some paw salve.  

Trail Etiquette!!

• Your dog should be under control at all times both on and off leash.
• Your dog should be within sight at all times and close enough for commands.
• Recall training with a whistle that can be heard from 400 yards away is a must. 
• Yield to other hikers with your dog heeling by your side when others approach. 
• Communicate proactively with other hikers. Please let other hikers know your dog's temperament before they approach. This will also give other hikers a chance to let you know their dog's temperament or their feelings about dogs-- not all people are dog lovers! Respect that: You don't know their history. This can help reduce the risk of dog fights, startlement and basic bad things happening. 
• Don't try to manage more than one dog at a time. If you have more than one dog, bring a friend to help out. Remember, even the best trained dogs can get overstimulated in the wild! Plus, there is just a lot of things that can happen on a trail that you have absolutely no control over. 
• Leave no trace. Pick up your dog poop and pack it out with you. Yes, I know that bears poop in the wilderness, but dog feces is toxic to the environment. (read here for the scoop on poop.)
• Protect the wildlife. Please don't let your dog go barreling off trail through the brush. Protect the natural flora and fauna: keep your dog to the trail. Dogs marking off trail can cause distress to the natural territorial animals in the area. Finally, proceed with caution on letting your dog enter water-- remember feces can disrupt waterways.

Caution while hiking:

• Be aware of temperatures. Try to avoid temperature extremes. Too cold and your dog risks hypothermia or frostbite. Too hot and your dog risks heat stroke. Keep out of the midday heat and sun. Pack extra water. 
• Check your dog for over exertion. Take frequent breaks and if your dog does not recover during those breaks, your pushing too hard.
• Check for paw injuries frequently.
• Be aware of dangerous plants, animals and unstable terrain: ticks, snakes, porcupines, poison ivy, cactus, giant drop offs-- research your terrain before you adventure into unfamiliar areas.
• Be wary of letting your dog drink from the water: there are pathogens that will make your dog sick in some waters, especially areas near campgrounds or cattle. Signs of water poisoning: diahrrea, vomiting, lethargy.

As you can see, it takes a lot of preparation to be a responsible, trail hiking dog owner! There is commitment involved for the safety of all involved. But with the right time put in, it's well worth the adventure outdoors. 🌲
 

Seasonal Allergies in Dogs

It's that time of year again: Everyone is walking around with tissues in their hands and pockets, eyes red and puffy, and in a Benadryl coma. ALLERGY SEASON. Humans are not the only ones to suffer. Dogs can too. Dog's exhibit seasonal allergies a little bit different than humans. Their symptoms are generally skin issues: allergic dermatitis.

• Your dog will be ITCHY. Fido will be scratching excessively, biting and chewing on spots of the body and rubbing against surfaces. 
• You may also notice that your dog's ears are chronically infected with rashes, yeast and bacteria. This will cause your dog to be constantly scratching the ears, head shaking and there will be hair loss around or on the ear. 
• Hot spots: These are localized areas of the skin that become red, scabby and infected. 
• Generalized redness: Puffy eyes, red oral tissue, red chin, red paws...
• Allergies are an immune system response. Canine's with an already weak immune system may develop respiratory issues like sinusitis, bronchitis, ect...

 There are two types of allergies: food and environment. Food allergies tend to be a constant chronic condition until the diet is altered and the allergenic food is eliminated. Seasonal allergies are...well... seasonal. UNLESS you live in a climate that doesn't experience a hard freeze. Then, they can become a year-long issue. Dog's can also become extremely sensitized to the environmental culprit. What may have been a once a year issue, can gradually get worse each year until it is a year long problem. If you think your dog is suffering from seasonal allergies, it's best to visit your veterinarian and take measures to alleviate the symptoms:

Benadryl can be given to a dog to temporarily relieve allergies. I would consult your veterinarian about giving your dog benadryl and your dog's correct dosage. Like humans, it will make your dog drowsy and it's probably not best to give your dog on a consistent basis.

Itchy Skin Remedies:

• Brush your dog everyday! When skin is itchy, inflammatory blood cells and chemical compounds such as histamine and prostaglandins accumulate in the affected area. Brushing your dog not only will feel good on those itchy areas, but also help clear out all the build up...kind of like raking the leaves out of your yard. 
• Spray a 50/50 solution of Apple Cider Vinegar and Water onto the affected areas of your dogs skin. 
• Chamomile Tea can be chilled and sprayed onto itchy areas in order to skill yeast and bacteria as well as soothe the skin.
• A spoonful of plain yogurt in your dog's diet will help balance the intestines and keep yeast infections at bay.
• Break a Vitamin E capsule and rub the oil onto irritating hot spots.
• Feed your dog Coconut Oil or apply to skin. Coconut oil has so many benefits! I cannot list them all today, but you can read about them in this other post I wrote---> Right here 
• Magnesium cream to alleviate hot spots or to dehydrate boils and abscesses. But, it should not be applied to an open wound. Instead, you would want to rub the cream around the wound. Giving your dog a "paw bath" of warm water and Epson Salt, which contains magnesium, after a long day of exercise to alleviate itchy paws and help stimulate blood flow to the skin. 

Can I Over Exercise My Dog?

 

Mental and physical health is essential to everyday life. But, how do we know if we are overdoing it and it is becoming an unhealthy compulsion? We have all heard of humans over exercising, which in turn causes mental fatigue as well as injuries. Dogs too can be over exercised from the well intentions of human companions.

So, how do we know if we humans are over doing the daily exercises with our dog? It's complicated. The first thing is to know your dog through observation of your dog's personality, research on breed and regular veterinarian visits. Daily requirements for exercise are based on breed, weight, age, size and the temperature outside. A Basset Hound or Bulldog are not going to require as much exercise as a Chocolate Lab. In fact, too much or high intensity exercise for the former breeds could cause serious medical issues. Overweight dogs will need a special exercise program to slowly take off weight while protecting the joints. As your dog ages, exercise regimens will need to be altered and changed depending upon the day. Finally, on hot days, all exercise should be decreased and never during peak temperatures-- Remember, dogs only release heat through panting and the pads of their paws. It's best to pay attention to your dog's language. Your dog will tell you when enough is enough, but you need to pay attention to the cues given. Dog's don't speak human.

Exhausted Dog Symptoms: 

Physical symptoms may include:

• Excessive panting during or after exercise
• Very red gums &tongue
• Vomiting & diarrhea
• Excessive salvation
• Extreme thirst. 

Behavioral symptoms may include:

• Lagging behind when usually up front
• Lameness & limping
• Reluctance to exercise or to continue to exercise
• Sore muscles & stiffness
• Confusion/ lack of focus
• Missing cues or commands they know well
• Overtired after exercise or sleeping/laying down more than usual. 

Awareness and moderation are the key to longevity in a human/ canine relationship. Physical exercise is a key component to this relationship, but there are also other keys-- mental enrichment through training games and just spending time together. A good ear scratch or belly rub doesn't hurt either. 😉